Page 246 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

existence of Ginostra, the hamlet on the southwest side of Stromboli. From the
minuscule harbour, zigzag steps climb into a cluster of typical white Aeolian houses
on terraces. It’s a refreshingly simple place: donkeys are tethered to posts outside
homes; ancient exterior stone ovens lie idle; and cultivated hedges and volcanic stone
walls snake up the hillside. Hydrofoils run to and from Stromboli town in summer,
though a boat tour is a more realistic way to see Ginostra (unless you fancy actually

staying here at the one small hotel). A century ago, there was also a maintained path
that skirted the shore back to Stromboli, but assault by the elements has done for most
of it. However, following the coast anticlockwise, you don’t need to go very far to
find spots where you can swim off the rocks.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: GINOSTRA

By ferry and hydrofoil Weather permitting, a couple of hydrofoils run to and from
Stromboli town per day in summer (once daily in winter), weather permitting of
course, continuing to Panarea, Santa Marina, Lipari, Vulcano and Milazzo. There is
also a ferry to the same places daily except Saturday. The twice weekly ferry to
Naples stops at Ginostra.

Ferry destinations Lipari (3 weekly; 3hr); Milazzo (3 weekly; 5hr 25min); Naples (2

weekly; 12hr); Panarea (3 weekly; 45min); Santa Marina Salina (1 weekly; 2hr);
Stromboli (1 weekly; 30min); Vulcano (3 weekly; 3hr 45min).

Hydrofoil destinations Lipari (2 daily; 1hr 15min–3hr 15min); Milazzo (3 daily; 2hr
15min–4hr 25min); Panarea (30min–2hr 20min); Santa Marina Salina (1 daily; 3hr
35min); Stromboli (2 daily; 10min); Vulcano (3 daily; 1hr 15min–3hr 35min).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Petrusa 090 981 2305. Ginostra’s only official accommodation has three large
rooms with their own terraces, sharing a bathroom. Half-board is obligatory in July
and Aug; you can eat at their bar-restaurant, L’Incontro (July & Aug daily lunch &

dinner), which has fairly high prices (everything has to be shipped in) but is pretty
good. No credit cards. Closed Oct to April. €110

< Back to The Aeolian Islands

Filicudi

The larger of the Aeolians’ two most westerly islands, FILICUDI is a fascinating
place, the contours of its sheer slopes traced with steep stone terraces and
crisscrossed by stone mule tracks. It’s an island best explored on foot – which is just
as well, as there’s no public transport. The tarmac road that connects Filicudi’s small

settlements gives a false impression of the island, making villages seem far apart even