Page 241 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

northwest side of the volcano into the sea.

Amazingly, perhaps, people have chosen to live here for centuries, reassured that,
historically, the main lava flows have been confined to the channel of the Sciara del
Fuoco, down the western side of the island. This leaves the eastern parishes of San
Vincenzo, San Bartolo and Piscità (often grouped together simply as Stromboli
village), and the solitary southern community of Ginostra, to lead something of a
charmed life, their white terraced houses adorned with bougainvillea, plumbago and

wisteria, remote from the fury of the craters above. The island’s permanent population
numbers perhaps five hundred, plumbing is often rudimentary, and access sometimes
restricted because of winter storms, but despite this, Stromboli has become a chic
resort, attracting an eclectic moneyed crowd that ranges from gay fashionistas to hip
intellectuals, a mix leavened with a generous dose of holidaying families and hardy

mountain types. Its black-sand beaches are overlooked by attractive terraced hotels,
while thrill-seekers come from all over the world to climb one of the planet’s most
accessible volcanoes.

CLIMBING STROMBOLI’S VOLCANO

Climbing Stromboli’s volcano is big business. Public access was only reopened in
2005 (after the eruptions of preceding years), and while you can freely walk along
the trails below 400m, you have to be accompanied by a licensed guide to go any
higher. Numbers at the crater are also limited, so it’s essential to reserve a place on

an organized excursion (around €30) as soon as you can – calling on the day is
usually fine for most of the year, but advanced booking is advised in high summer –
and be prepared for the trip to be postponed because of poor weather or other
climatic or geological reasons. You need to be in decent health, have proper hiking
boots and clothes (you can rent these in the village), and carry plenty of water and
sun protection. Guides usually supply helmets.

If you want to see eruptions without the effort or expense of climbing to the summit,

follow the track a few minutes’ walk beyond San Bartolo church at the far end of
Piscità, climbing to the first orientation point, L’Osservatorio, a bar-pizzeria
(closed in winter) which has a wide terrace and a view of the volcano. Beyond,
you’ll see the frighteningly sheer Sciara del Fuoco lava outflow plunging directly
into the sea. This is a huge blistered sheet down which thousands of years’ worth of
volcanic detritus has poured, scarring and pock-marking the hillside. Menacing little
puffs of steam dance up from folds in the bare slope, where absolutely nothing

grows.

THE CLIMB

Most excursions leave in the late afternoon, taking around five or six hours – this lets