Page 242 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

you catch the amazing sunsets and gives you around an hour or so at the top,

watching the fireworks. The ascent takes three hours, and you are expected to go at
a fair whack; at first, it’s no different from walking up any mountain, then suddenly
all vegetation stops, giving way to black ash strewn with small jagged boulders
spewed out by the volcano. Once at the top, all you see at first are clouds of white
steam – then suddenly there will be a resounding clash, the clouds glow red, and

spouts of fire shoot up into the air, the glowing boulders drawing tracks of red light
across the night sky. The descent takes around two hours – for the most part trudging
down a steep slope of lava-sand.

GUIDES, EQUIPMENT AND INFORMATION

Gruppo Nazionale Vulcanologia 090 986 708, gnv.ingv.it. Near the harbour,
the national vulcanology organization has an office with useful background

information on the volcano. It’s open most days and shows a video about Stromboli,
while the national website has photos, technical information and some scary
seismograph readings from previous eruptions.

Magmatrek Via Vittorio Emanuele, just off the piazza 090 986 5768,
magmatrek.it. Local climbing guru, Zazà, and his colleagues have daily volcano
treks throughout the year. Guides are knowledgeable and experienced and in constant

contact with the vulcanological centre.

Totem Trekking Piazza San Vincenzo 4 090 986 5752. Useful little shop that
sells and rents out hiking equipment and accessories.

GETTING AROUND: STROMBOLI

By taxi Stromboli has no public transport – indeed the only transport on the island is
by three-wheeler pick-up (the Ape, or bee, known as a lapa hereabouts), motorbike or
electric car – so if your hotel is any distance from the port you may need a taxi.
Though unofficial lapas may offer their services, the only official taxis are the electric
golf carts; however, as these take ten hours to charge for every two hours’ driving,

demand quite often simply outstrips supply. As a precaution, ask your hotel at the time
of booking if they have, or can organize, transport for you. Of the official taxis, Sabbia
Nera ( 090 986 399), based near the port, are reliable and friendly. In high season,
consider booking one in advance to meet you on arrival.

STROMBOLI BOAT TOURS

The main daytime boat tour from Stromboli is the round-island excursion (2hr
30min; around €30 per person), calling at Ginostra and Stromboli’s extraordinary
basalt offspring, Strombolicchio. You usually get half an hour to scramble around