Page 249 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

By ferry and hydrofoil Filicudi Porto is an hour by hydrofoil from Lipari, and three
hours from Palermo. The Siremar ( 090 988 9960) and Ustica Lines ( 090 988
9949) ticket offices are on the dockside, both open before departures. Although there
is one weekly ferry from Naples to Filicudi, there are no direct services back to
Naples from here – you’ll need to connect to another ferry at Rinella or Santa Marina
Salina. The services detailed here are year-round; schedules increase during the

summer months.

Ferry destinations Alicudi (1 daily; 1hr 10min); Lipari (1 daily; 2hr 50min); Milazzo
(1 daily; 5hr); Rinella (1 daily; 1hr); Santa Marina (1 daily; 1hr 50min); Vulcano (1
daily; 3hr 20min).

Hydrofoil destinations Lipari (2 daily; 1hr); Rinella (2 daily; 30min); Santa Marina
Salina (2 daily; 45min).

Services The one-street port has a pharmacy (limited opening), general store and
ATM. One of the bar-restaurants here, Da Nino sul Mare ( 090 988 9984), also sells
ice cream, postcards and island maps (€5) showing Filicudi’s footpaths.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

Da Nino sul Mare 090 988 9984. The seafront terrace of this bar and pasticceria is
the focal point of life in the port. Come for breakfast, a lunchtime snack or aperitivo at
sunset. April–Oct daily 7.30am–midnight.

Phenicusa 090 988 9946, hotelphenicusa.com. The only hotel right by the village
harbour opens for just four months a year – it’s a traditional three-star, with
reasonable rooms, though not all have sea views (and you pay a supplement for those

that do). Breakfast is served on the sun-soaked terrace, and the decent restaurant has
the same sea and harbour views. Half board is required in Aug. Closed Oct–May. Per-
person half board €110

Capo Graziano

Signposted off the main road from Filicudi Porto, it’s a pleasant twenty-minute walk
along a steep stone path to Capo Graziano. Here, on a grassy plateau, high above the
harbour, are the remains of a dozen or so oval prehistoric huts, dating from the
eighteenth to the thirteenth century BC. The site is always open, and though there’s not
much to see, it’s a fine place from which to watch the comings and goings at the
harbour below, and there are several rocky places to swim from on the south side of

the cape.

Rocche Ciauli