Page 254 - The Rough Guide of Sicily
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down the hill (it is said that since the statue was moved, the island has had bad
luck). Otherwise, follow the path north out of the port behind the church of the
Carmine from where it’s an easy walk to the narrow stony beach of Bazzina, with a
couple of smallholdings behind it.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Ericusa Hotel 090 988 9902, alicudihotel.it. A modern twelve-room hotel of
little architectural charm, a 5min walk south of the port along the shore. Compensating
are sea views, spacious terraces and a restaurant. Closed Oct–May. Offers half board
only; rates are per person. From €75
Casa Mulino 090 988 9681, alicudicasamulino.it. Small apartments with cooking
facilities and rooms with terraces sleeping two, four or six people. Rooms €80;
apartments €100
Da Rosina Alla Mimosa Via Vallone 3 090 988 9937 or 368 361 6511, rosina-
barbuto.it. Named after a huge mimosa tree that was uprooted by a recent tornado, the
glassed-in terrace of this agriturismo (decorated with abundant artificial flowers) is
the best place to eat in Alicudi. Virtually everything is produced or – in the case of
rabbit and fish – caught by the family: a raisiny rough red wine, good olive oil, fruit,
vegetables and meat (cows and sheep are grazed way up the mountain, goats and
rabbits run wild, chickens are free-range). In autumn there are wild mushrooms, and
from autumn to spring wild pickings such as fennel and borage. Menus are set (€25 per
head); a typical dinner would include an antipasto of grilled vegetables or frittata
(with ricotta and borage if you’re lucky), pasta, grilled meat or fish, salad and fruit.
There are also a handful of simple rooms to rent. No credit cards. Closed Oct–March,
though open on request at other times. €60
Signore Silvio Taranto Via Regina Elena snc 090 988 9922. It’s well worth calling
in on Signore Taranto, who lives up the hill behind the Siremar office (anyone can
point you in the right direction). He cooks dinner on request – spaghetti, fresh fish,
salad, fruit and wine – for around €25 a head, served on his bougainvillea-covered
terrace in the company of whoever else happens to turn up, which in summer will
include other tourists, in winter a motley array of builders, technicians, doctors and
others who come to the island to work. Daily dinner only.
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