Page 257 - The Rough Guide of Sicily
P. 257
With its dramatic backdrop of mountains, Sicily’s northeastern corner includes
the island’s most visually exotic coastline, crammed with brilliant displays of
vegetation. With beaches of fine quartz shingle, the coast is also dominated by an
almost unbroken ribbon of development, for this is one of Sicily’s most popular
resort areas, with both Italian and foreign tourists lured by the stunning views
down to a cobalt sea. Once the decadent retreat of D.H. Lawrence and Oscar
Wilde, Taormina is now the most illustrious resort on the entire island, and its
famous ancient theatre, grand hotels and engaging small-town charm captivate
most visitors. The local beaches are all a short ride below town, including the
extensive sands that line the curving bay at Giardini-Naxos.
It’s Messina, just across the busy Straits from mainland Italy, that’s the major city in
this region, though an unfortunate history has left only scant attractions. Inland, you can
leave the crowds behind in the venerable old hill-villages of Savoca and Forza
d’Agrò, where many scenes from the Godfather films were shot, as well as taking in
the area’s most gruesome attraction – the mummified bodies on display in Savoca’s
Cappuccini monastery. Further south, beyond Taormina, the Alcantara valley with its
spectacular gorge is the best target hereabouts for those seeking outdoor adventure –
while beguiling, unspoilt Castiglione di Sicilia is the hill-town most likely to pull at
the heartstrings of those yearning to begin a new life in rural Sicily.