Page 251 - The Rough Guide of Sicily
P. 251
TO PECORINI MARE BY MULE TRACK
It is an 18km drive by road from Filicudi Porto to Pecorini Mare, but by mule track
it’s a mere 3km. From the port, go up the steps by the Postamat bank machine, and
follow the cobbled track until you come to a fork. The right fork leads to Villa La
Rosa, but for Pecorini Mare bear left until you hit the tarmacked road. Head right
along the road; at the first bend there is an electricity cabin – a little dirt path from
here leads down to a good swimming track, while the main, cobbled mule track
heads right towards Pecorini, following a terrace. Keep on along this track until you
come to a white house, from where a track heads uphill to Valdichiesa; the path to
Pecorini Mare squeezes past the wall of the white house, before descending to the
village.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING: PECORINI MARE
Lidalina 349 361 7577, info@filicudicasevacanze.it. A desert-island lido at
the far end of the Pecorini Mare beach, with straw parasols and a little bar selling
snacks, salads and artisan granitas. There’s no music and a single electric cable
serving the fridge, so at night tables are lit with oil lamps. Daytime, food is self-
service and includes arancini of rice-flower spaghettini with squid ink (€3), polpette
of vegetables (€2 each), tuna or prawns (€2.50 each), octopus salad (€8) and a fine
caponata (€6). In the evenings it becomes a restaurant, with a simple menu of fish
carpaccio (around €10) and grilled or roast fish (€12–15). There are books and
magazines in a variety of languages for the use of clients. Anglo-Polish owner Alina
also has several houses and studio apartments in the village (all with kitchens or
cooking facilities, sleeping from 2–8 people). Closed Oct–May. Houses from €60
Saloon 347 047 4914. The quayside below the Saloon is the social hub of Pecorini
Mare, and on a summer evening folk gather outside in their hundreds for a sundowner.
It has been going since the 1950s, and little has changed: inside there’s a fridge, a
kitchen and a table where you pay your bill. Early June to mid-Sept daily 10.30am–
2pm & 5–11pm.
La Sirena 090 988 9997, pensionelasirena.it. An oasis you won’t want to
leave, this cosy inn is run with relaxed flair and sits right on the Pecorini Mare
seafront, with the fishing boats drawn up alongside. Rooms above the restaurant have
little waterfront balconies, and there’s a couple right on the beach itself. Out on the
shaded terrace is the island’s most relaxed restaurant (daily lunch & dinner). It gets
very busy in Aug, but at most times of the year all you can hear is the sound of lapping
water as you tuck into things like spaghetti with almond sauce (€15), orange-scented
involtini of swordfish (€15) and an unforgettable Sicilian-style tuna hamburger spiked