Page 219 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

are open. For more secluded swimming, head to the Spiaggia Bianca, signposted from

the northern end of town, along a stepped path that runs up, around and down to the
Spiaggia Bianca, an expansive sand-and-pebble beach that is worth the effort to
reach. Refreshments and parasols are available here in summer.

Campobianco and Monte Pilato

North of Canneto at Campobianco, pumice workings have left huge white scars on the

hillside. For 2–3km all around, the ground looks as if it’s had a dusting of talcum
powder, while years of accumulation of pumice sediment on the sea bed have turned
the water a piercing aquamarine colour. Above Campobianco, a path leads up the
slopes of Monte Pilato (476m), thrown up in the eruption from which all the pumice
originally came. The last explosion occurred in around 700 AD, leading to the virtual
abandonment of Lipari town and creating the obsidian flows of Rocche Rosse and

Forgia Vecchia, both of which can be climbed. Although it’s overgrown with
vegetation, you can still make out the outline of the crater at the top, and you may come
across the blue-black veins of obsidian.

Porticello

From the bus stop above the stony beach at Porticello, a road (and a quicker, more

direct path) winds down to a small bay, which sunbathers share with the forlorn Heath
Robinson-style pumice-work machinery that connects the white hillside with the pier.
After storms, this is ripe hunting ground for hunks of obsidian, washed up on the
strand. There’s no shade here, and the pebble beach soon reaches scalding
temperatures. A couple of vans sell cool drinks and snacks in the summer.

Quattrocchi

Three kilometres west of Lipari town is Quattrocchi, a noted viewpoint over Vulcano

and the spiky faraglioni rocks, which puncture the sea between the two islands. The
curious name (meaning “Four Eyes”) is said to derive from the fact that newly wedded
couples traditionally come here to be photographed, so gracing every shot with two
pairs of eyes.

San Calogero

Just before the fragmented village of Pianoconte, a side road slinks off down to the old

Roman thermal baths at San Calogero. It’s a particularly pleasant route to follow on
foot, across a valley and skirting some impressive cliffs, with the baths hidden behind
a long-disused spa hotel: there’s usually an unofficial guide to show you around and
allow you a dip, if you dare, in the scummy 57°C Roman pool.

Cave Caolina