Page 216 - The Rough Guide of Sicily
P. 216
EATING AND DRINKING
There’s a fair choice of restaurants in Lipari town, though many close between
October and March. Prices are on the high side, but a couple of the restaurants rank
among the best in the archipelago. Bars along the Corso fill up from early evening
onwards, as the passeggiata swings into action. Alternatively, for a drink with a sea
view, head down to the Marina Corta where a line of tables belonging to late-opening
bars spills out across the harbourfront.
RESTAURANTS
Il Filippino Piazza Municipio 090 981 1002, eolieexperience.it. This
stupendous fish restaurant – Lipari’s best, in business since 1910 – really knows its
stuff. It’s in the upper town and has a shaded outdoor terrace where you can eat classy
Aeolian specialities like borlotti bean, sardine and fennel soup, risotto nero
(coloured with squid ink), grouper-stuffed ravioloni and local fish in a ghiotta sauce
(tomatoes, onions, celery, capers and olives). Choose carefully and you might get
away with €40 a head, though you could easily spend €70 – and more if you give any
serious thought to the massive wine list. Daily lunch & dinner; closed mid-Nov to
Dec, and Mon Oct–Nov & Jan–March.
Kasbah Café Vico Selinunte 45 090 981 1075, kasbahcafe.it. Chic but
unpretentious restaurant with a beautiful garden; the Anglo-Aeolian owner will advise
on the best ways to sample the fresh fish. Antipasti (€8–9) and primi (€10–12) make
creative use of local ingredients – try treccine with local shrimps, aubergine and
cherry tomatoes, or tagliolini with clams, zucchini flowers, basil and black pepper.
They also make their own bread and the island’s best pizza (€6–8.50), using stone-
ground flour. Daily dinner only; Oct–March closed Wed.
E’Pulera Via Diana 090 981 1158, eolieexperience.it. A romantic courtyard-
garden restaurant specializing in classic Aeolian food: swordfish involtini, caper
salads, home-made pasta with wild fennel and prawns, almond biscuits and malvasia
wine. The super cuisine is well worth the highish prices, and it stays open till late
(kitchen closes at midnight). Expect to pay €40 plus per head excluding wine. Daily
dinner only; closed Oct–March.
Di Vino in Vino 2 Via Garibaldi 34 090 988 0554. This enoteca serves full meals
as well as snacks – ingredients are rigorously sourced and cooked by the owner’s
wife. There’s pizza bianca, a wide range of inventive sandwiches and bruschetta,
plates of salami, hams and cheeses served with home-made bread, figs, nuts, honey
and jams (€14), and dishes such as paccheri with swordfish, mint and pistachio (€15),
pasta with fresh Vulcano ricotta (€8), and spaghetti with mussels and prawns (€12).
Fish of the day is €18, and desserts include a delectable strawberry or banana and rum