Page 224 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

alternative base to Lipari for exploring the others, while Salina itself holds a network

of hiking trails, some good beaches and several distinct villages. Tourism here is
fairly sophisticated, with some charming boutique-style accommodation and excellent
restaurants, especially in the main port, Santa Marina Salina, and in the town of
Malfa, but the island certainly isn’t a summer fleshpot like Vulcano or Panarea. It’s

quieter, more relaxed and still very much part of the ebb and flow of traditional
Aeolian life, which makes it many people’s favourite island.

There are two ports on Salina: Santa Marina Salina in the east and smaller Rinella
on the south coast. Not all ferry and hydrofoil services call at both ports, so it’s
essential to check timetables carefully if time is tight and connections crucial. There
is, however, a regular bus service between both ports, vaguely timed to connect with

arrivals, though if your boat is late, don’t expect the bus to have waited.

WALKING ON SALINA

There are well-maintained, waymarked hiking trails right across Salina, in
particular to the heights of Monte Fossa delle Felci and the sanctuary of Madonna
del Terzito. It’s great walking country, since most of the island has been zealously
protected: wild flowers are much in evidence, and hunting and shooting are banned,
which helps keep the bird numbers high.

For a good day out on the tops, first take the bus to the sanctuary – all buses except

those between Malfa and Pollara pass right by. Madonna del Terzito is set in the
saddle between the two peaks of Salina, with fine views over the sea. A signposted
track leads up to the summit of Monte Fossa delle Felci (962m), the archipelago’s
highest peak. It’s a steady climb through forest and mountain parkland, which takes
the best part of two hours – only in the latter stages does it become tougher, with a
final 100m clamber over rocks to reach the stone cairn and simple wooden cross at

the top, from where the views are magnificent.