Page 223 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

Lipari. There are a couple of seafront cafés here, and some large hotels set back from

the sands. From the beach, the only road heads north through the trees to Vulcanello,
thrown up out of the sea in a famous eruption in 183 BC, and joined to the main island
by another flurry of activity a few centuries later. The walk takes less than an hour.

ACCOMMODATION: PORTO DI PONENTE

Eden Park Via Porto Ponente 10 090 985 2120, isolavulcano.it. This
agreeable holiday site, set in its own peaceful grounds on the south side of the bay and
slightly inland, is by far the island’s best budget option. Campers can pitch tents on
real grass, or even bivouac on the lawn, while there are also single-room apartments
with terrace, shower and kitchen; and “economic” double rooms with two bunk beds

and a shared bathroom. Note that prices double for ten days on either side of the
ferragosto (Aug 10–20). Breakfast is available, and campers pay extra for showers.
No credit cards. Closed Dec–Feb. Camping per person €16; double rooms €40;
apartments €120

Orsa Maggiore Via Porto Ponente 4 090 985 2018, orsamaggiorehotel.com. It’s
a few hundred metres from the black-sand beach, but this small hotel does have a very
nice pool, surrounded with chic decking, terrace and gardens. Prices are raised by €40

overnight for ten days on either side of the ferragosto (Aug 10–20). Closed Nov–
March. €140

Gelso

At the far south of Vulcano, 15km from Porto di Levante, the coastal hamlet of Gelso
is named for the mulberries that grow here, along with capers. There’s a tiny patch of
black sand (with a seasonal trattoria, Da Pina), and a better beach at Spiaggia
dell’Asino, a larger cove accessible from a steep path which you’ll have passed on
your way into Gelso. This is a great spot for a swim, with a summer café, and
umbrellas and deckchairs available.

< Back to The Aeolian Islands

Salina

The ancient name of SALINA was Didyme, or “twin”, referring to the two volcanic
cones that give the island its distinctive shape. Both volcanoes are long extinct, but
their past eruptions, combined with plenty of ground water – unique in the Aeolians –
have endowed Salina with the most fertile soil of all the islands. The slopes are

verdant, the island’s tree cover contrasts strongly with the denuded crags of its
neighbours, and both capers and malvasia grapevines – classic Aeolian staples – are
vigorously cultivated. The island’s central position in the archipelago makes it a good