Page 183 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

borgo outside Petralia Soprana. It’s best known as a place to eat, with mains based on

whatever is in season at the time – every ingredient is meticulously sourced or picked
from the garden. The quality free-range chickens and Madonie lamb are fragrantly
stuffed and oven roasted, and a full meal will be €25–30. There are rooms as well,

and staying here is an unforgettable experience. €80
Polizzi Generosa

A twenty-minute drive west of the Petralias, the small town of POLIZZI
GENEROSA is another possible Madonie base. Mountain views aside, the grand old
Chiesa Matrice contains the area’s greatest work of art, a triptych of the Madonna
and Child flanked by saints. Attributed to a mysterious fifteenth-century Fleming

known only as the “Maître au Feuillage brodé”, it’s reckoned to be his finest
achievement.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: POLIZZI GENEROSA

By bus Polizzi Generosa is connected to Palermo by very infrequent buses (2 daily;
1hr 20min; saistrasporti.it).

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING

U Bagghiu Via Gagliardo 3 0921 551 111. Serves a great pasta speciality, penne al
Bagghiu (cheesy penne with tomato and garlic), and pizzas in the evening. Dishes

from €6. Mon & Wed–Sun lunch & dinner.

Giardino Donna Lavia Contrada Donna Lavia 0921 551 104,
giardinodonnalavia.com. Set within a former Jesuit monastery and the perfect location
for a country holiday, with five rooms and a suite with its own terrace in a tower. The
restaurant (dinner daily; €23) is exceptional, with locally sourced meats, home-grown
veg and pulses, and freshly picked wild greens and herbs. Try the home-made

taglietelle with a tasty puree of fagioli badda (a dramatic-looking violet and white
bean unique to Polizzi), wild borage and wild fennel. Lots of wild mushrooms in
season, and a fabulous roast suckling pig. Rooms €70, suite €100

Santa Venera Contrada Santa Venera 0921 649 421, santavenera.com. It’s
worth making the trip to hole up in this place, run by the same family behind U
Bagghiu and located 7km north of Polizzi Generosa, towards the Scillato autostrada

junction. A comfortable farmhouse agriturismo, it’s surrounded by vineyards and
orchards, with seven en-suite rooms, a swimming pool and good views in all
directions. You can eat in the restaurant here (daily, dinner only) for €15–25, or

there’s a half-board deal for €50 per person. €70
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