Page 178 - The Rough Guide of Sicily
P. 178
pathway” route guides, translated loosely into English, for out-of-the-way places
like Caltavuturo and Sclafani Bagni – however, they aren’t as useful as they seem
and require a high degree of tolerance for getting lost. Some local tour operators
organize hikes, pony treks and other mountain activities, which might be your best
bet for getting to grips with the Madonie – check posters and brochures in local
information offices.
GETTING AROUND: PARCO REGIONALE DELLE MADONIE
By car You’ll need a car to get around the Madonie mountains, particularly as
accommodation outside the towns is extremely limited and fairly remote. A good
driving route runs from Castelbuono to Geraci Siculo and on to Petralia Soprana,
before twisting back across the mountains to the ski and hiking area of Piano Battàglia
and round again to Castelbuono. You could do this in a day (about a 90km, 3hr, drive),
but spending at least one night in the mountains would give you time for a walk, a
country picnic or two and endless stunning views.
By bus Buses run between Cefalù and Castelbuono (7 daily Mon–Sat, 2 daily Sun).
Castelbuono
CASTELBUONO – self-styled “capital” of the Monti Madonie – doesn’t actually
feel much like a mountain town at all, but it is a pretty place that makes a good day-
trip from Cefalù, even if you plan to go no further and higher into the Madonie park. It
owes its origins to the Ventimiglia family, who made the town something of a thriving
cultural centre in the fifteenth century, and their seat was the squat Castello
Ventimiglia that’s visible from many kilometres around.
Castelbuono’s main street, Via Umberto I, is closed to traffic for much of the day.
Like the rest of town, it makes for an enjoyable stroll, with a maze of cobbled streets
on either side opening on to occasional churches and shady piazzas. For three days
every June, the streets are laid with amazing floral designs and pictures during the
Infiorata Castelbuonese. The lovely freestanding “Venus and Cupid” fountain on
Via Umberto I is a good thirst-quencher on a hot day, while if you stroll around for any
length of time you’ll also probably come across Castelbuono’s eco-donkeys – the
town has replaced its garbage trucks with a unique door-to-door donkey collection
service for household waste and recycling.
Matrice Vecchia
Piazza Margherita • Daily 11am–1pm & 5–7pm • Crypt €0.50
From the restored gateway and enclosed castle piazza, a charming tree-lined street
runs down to central Piazza Margherita, where terrace cafés overlook the fourteenth-