Page 181 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

serious mountain cuisine, this upmarket rustic tavern does amazing things with wild

mushrooms. They appear in soups, sauces and pasta dishes and with pork and beef to
follow; finishing with a shot of the sweet local digestivo, Elisir di Fontana, is always
a good idea. Dishes start at €8, or there are three tasting menus at €23, €25 and (if you
are seriously hungry) €30. It’s just down Via Umberto I from Piazza Margherita,
second alley on the right. Daily lunch & dinner; Jan & Feb closed Wed.

Geraci Siculo

For an initial taste of the mountains, make the half-hour drive from Castelbuono up the
winding SS286 to GERACI SICULO, 20km away. If ever a town was buttoned up
tight against the threat of winter, it’s this one, with its packed houses lining streets so
narrow that laundry is strung across from balcony to balcony. At the highest point, up
back-breaking cobbled alleys, the scant, restored ruins of a castle and an ancient

chapel stand amid wild flowers and scented pines. Amazing 360-degree panoramas
unfold, while back down the valley Castelbuono and its own mighty castle are easily
seen. The road south of town climbs even higher before dropping down to the SS120
Gangi–Petralia road, where you can pick up the route into the central park region.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: GERACI SICULO

By bus There is a bus to Geraci a couple of times a day from Cefalù via Castelbuono,
which then runs on to Gangi, but it really isn’t worth the hours of time between one bus
and the next. Realistically Geraci is only a coffee stop for drivers.

Piano Zucchi and Piano Battaglia

The heart of the Madonie lies southwest of Castelbuono, in the upland slopes and
valleys below the two peaks of Pizzo Antenna Grande (or Pizzo della Principessa,
1977m) and Pizzo Carbonara (1979m). These are the highest of Sicily’s mountains
after Etna, with a winter ski business based at the two resort areas of Piano Zucchi
and Piano Battaglia – though “resort” is pushing it, since there are no villages here and

only very limited facilities. Outside winter time, it’s an enjoyable drive up into the
high mountains, with plenty of places to park up, take a walk through the alpine
meadows and have a picnic.

There’s nothing much at all at Piano Zucchi (1100m), save a little mountain chapel, a
children’s playground and views of peaks to all sides. Piano Battaglia, sited at

1600m ( pianobattaglia.it), is a rather nicer area for walks in the high plains and
picnics under the beech trees.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: PIANO ZUCCHI AND PIANO

BATTAGLIA