Page 179 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

century Matrice Vecchia, fronted by a pretty loggia. If it’s open, you can pay to
descend well-worn steps into the crypt to view a series of remarkably well-preserved
sixteenth-century frescoes of the Passion of Christ.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: CASTELBUONO

By bus There are regular buses to Castelbuono from outside Cefalù’s train station, a
40min ride.

Destinations Cefalù (7 daily Mon–Sat, 1–2 daily Sun; 40min); Collesano (6 daily
Mon–Sat; 45min); Gangi (1 daily; 1hr–1hr 20min); Geraci (2 daily Mon–Sat, 1 daily
Sun; 45min); Isnello (1 daily Mon–Sat; 25min); Palermo (3 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr

45min); Termini Imerese (2 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 30min).

By car If you’re staying in Cefalù, you might as well leave the car and take the bus;
otherwise, park where you can and walk into the old town area (“centro storico”).
Traffic loops through town on a convoluted one-way system, and it has to be said that
initial impressions of Castelbuono by car are not good; it’s much nicer once you’re on
foot.

ACCOMMODATION

4 Cannola Via Dafni 7 0921 671 490 or 333 242 1018, bb-4cannola.it. The
town’s most central B&B has clean, plain rooms in a restored house just behind the

Venus fountain (aka Quattro Cannola or Four Spouts) on the main street. €60

Azienda Agrituristica Bergi Contrada Bergi 0921 672 045,
agriturismobergi.com. A laidback organic estate in a gorgeous valley, 3km southeast
of town on the SS286 Geraci Siculo road, with spacious, country-style one- and two-
room units set around landscaped gardens and a pool. It’s a working farm of orchards
and olives – home-made preserves and fruit from the trees are served at breakfast,
while a good four-course dinner (€25, or included in the €75 half-board per person

rate) uses more of their produce. €110

Relais Santa Anastasia Contrada Santa Anastasia 0921 672 233, santa-
anastasia-relais.it. For a sumptuous stay, try this rather grand restored twelfth-century
abbey 8km outside town, with honeyed stone walls, elegant rooms in deep colours,
and a glorious outdoor pool. Rates can be high, but contact them for special deals,

especially out of season. Dinner in the lovely restaurant is €40 per person. €360

Rifugio Francesco Crispi Piano Semprià 0921 672 279. The nearest mountain
refuge to Castelbuono is at 1300m above sea level, and a good two hours’ strenuous
walk away in the Milocca forest. It’s open all year, providing basic accommodation in
double rooms. Breakfast is included, and dinner is available. €60