Page 271 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

off Via della Libertà, around the Fiera di Messina – though venues may change. If

films are showing, arrive early, as these events tend to get crowded. Ask at the tourist
office for details of all of the above events.

FERRAGOSTO

If you’re in Messina in midsummer, you might catch the festivals around the Feast of
the Assumption, or ferragosto. Although all the villages on both sides of the Straits
hold festivals around this time, with some pretty spectacular fireworks lighting up
the sky on any one night, Messina’s festivities are grander, beginning around August
12, when two plaster giants (giganti) are wheeled around town, and finally stationed
near the port opposite the Municipio. These are said to be Messina’s two founders,

Mata and Grifone, one a white female, the other a burly Moor, and both mounted on
huge steeds. On ferragosto itself, August 15, another towering carriage, the Vara, is
hauled through the city centre. It’s an elaborate column supporting dozens of papier-
mâché cherubs and angels, culminating in the figure of Christ stretching out his right
arm to launch Mary on her way to Heaven. This unwieldy construction is towed on

long ropes, pulled by hundreds of penitents – semi-naked if they’re men, all in white
if they’re women – and cheered on by thousands of people along the way. The whole
thing is a sweaty and frenetic performance, finishing up at Piazza del Duomo, where
flowers are thrown out to the crowds, many of whom risk being crushed in the mad
scramble to gather these luck-bearing charms. Late at night, one of Sicily’s best
firework displays is held on the seafront near Via della Libertà.

DIRECTORY

Hospital Ospedale Policlinico, Via Consolare Valeria 1 ( 090 2211); take the tram
to the Bonino terminus. For emergencies call 113.

Left luggage The office on Platform 1 at the train station (Mon–Fri 6am–4pm, Sat &
Sun 6am–2pm) charges €3 per bag for 12hr, then €2 for every subsequent 12hr.

Pharmacy There’s an all-night service on a rotating basis: consult any pharmacy
window to find out current farmacie notturne.

Police Carabinieri, Via Nino Bixio ( 112 or 090 771 330); Questura, for the
police, Via Placida 2, near Villa Mazzini ( 113 or 090 3661).

Post office Main office at Corso Cavour 138, behind Piazza Duomo (Jan–July &
Sept–Dec Mon–Fri 8am–6.30pm, Sat 8am–12.30pm; Aug Mon–Fri 8am–1.30pm, Sat
8am–12.30pm).

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