Page 269 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

from the port and Piazza Cairoli for a more relaxed atmosphere. If you’re here in early

summer, make a point of sampling the local swordfish; May and June are the height of
the swordfish season. The streets around Piazza Lo Sardo (also known as Piazza del
Popolo) hold a good mix of rough-and-ready trattorias and more serious eating places,
while the area around Piazza Cairoli is best for bar life, though some of the bars close

in August when everyone’s at the beach.

FOOD SHOPPING IN MESSINA

Messina is renowned for its pastries and biscuits. There’s a cluster of classy
pasticcerie, most notably Billé and Irrera on Piazza Cairoli. If you want to try

something really local, look out for the pignolata, a sugary confection covered with
brown or white icing. It is not as delicious as it looks. Oviesse is a convenient
supermarket for food, clothes and other items on Piazza Cairoli (daily 9am–1pm &
4–8pm), while the lanes running off the square hold smart boutiques and leather
shops. For a picnic lunch, tasty panini and other cold snacks are on offer at

Salumeria Nucita, an alimentari at Via Garibaldi 125 (Mon–Wed & Sat 9am–1pm
& 4–8pm, Thurs 9am–1pm).

CAFÉS

Billé Piazza Cairoli 7 090 240 3059. One of Piazza Cairoli’s two long-established
cafés – both of them Messina institutions. Good range of cornetti and other pastries

for breakfast, savouries for lunch and cakes for tempting afternoon teas. There are
seats outside across the road in the piazza – though service is not always up to scratch.
Mon & Wed–Sun 7.30am–11pm, later on Fri and Sat.

Irrera Piazza Cairoli 12 090 673 823, irrera.it. Founded in 1910, this historic
pasticceria makes typical Sicilian biscuits, cakes, pastries, cornetti and cannoli that
are, if anything, even better than at Billé, while slick service during lunch (good
sandwiches) and the aperitivo hour make this a popular spot throughout the day. Daily

8am–8.30pm.

RESTAURANTS

Le Due Sorelle Piazza Unione Europea 4 090 44 720. With only nine tables, this is
a small and select trattoria. Specialities such as padella – a local version of paella –
and couscous con pesce cost about €16, with main courses up to €20. Booking
advised. Mon–Fri lunch & dinner, Sat & Sun dinner only; closed Aug.

Fratelli La Bufala Corso Vittorio Emanuele 1 090 662 513, fratellilabufala.eu. A
branch of the superior Neapolitan pizza chain committed to using no hydrogenated fats,
glutamates or GM ingredients. Handy for the hydrofoil dock, it serves up great pizza