Page 270 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

(with buffalo mozzarella, of course) along with buffalo-meat secondi and Campanian

wines. Two could eat a pizza and have a glass of wine for less than €20. Daily lunch
& dinner.

Al Gattopardo Via Santa Cecilia 184 090 673 076. With tables outside on a lovely
tree-lined avenue, Al Gattopardo is a Messinese institution. The pizzas are some of
the best in town (try the Messinese with escarole, mozzarella, anchovies and black
pepper; €7), but there are other tempting choices such as raw prawns (€12), zuppa di

cozze (mussel soup; €9), and a delicious lemon risotto with prawns and cernia
(grouper; €12). Meat is carefully sourced too, and even includes steaks of Irish Angus
(€14). Daily lunch & dinner.

Osteria Etnea Via A Martino 38 393 898 7144. Abundant portions and low prices
(all dishes €6–12) make this tidy little place near Piazza Lo Sardo popular with
locals. The menu is long (specializing in fish) and the service brisk. Mon–Sat lunch &

dinner.

Al Padrino Via S. Cecilia 54–6 090 292 1000. This bare, frill-free
neighbourhood trattoria specializes in traditional Sicilian fare, such as maccu (mashed
fava or broad beans), melanzane al Padrino (aubergines stuffed with fresh pasta and
ricotta) and pasta con legumi riposata (pasta with beans, left to rest a while after
cooking so that broth thickens and flavour develops), both €6–8. A three-course meal
will cost under €20. Mon–Fri lunch & dinner, Sat dinner only.

Shawarma Via M. Giurba 8 090 712 213. Tagines, couscous and a range of
potato dishes share menu space with (less recommendable) pizzas at this popular
trattoria off Piazza Lo Sardo, with some outdoor seating. Hubble-bubbles and
occasional belly-dancing (usually Fri & Sun) add to the atmosphere. You can eat well
for under €20. Tues–Sat dinner only.

Trattoria del Popolo Piazza Lo Sardo 090 671 148. You can eat outside at this
friendly trattoria, making the most of the rare calm of this corner of the city. Dishes
include sarde allinguate (fried sardines dressed with vinegar) and franceschini (baby
squid fried in breadcrumbs); pasta dishes cost €5–7, mains €6–10. Mon–Sat lunch &
dinner; closed late Aug.

NIGHTLIFE AND ENTERTAINMENT

Exhibitions and classical concerts take place near the port at the church of Santa
Maria Alemanna (Via I Settembre), while free concerts of light music are staged in
Piazza del Duomo in July and August. Though they’re not put on every year, July and

Aug also see free film screenings (usually at 8.30pm), generally in the Villa Mazzini
public gardens near the hydrofoil dock, or nearby next to the church of San Giuliano