Page 554 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

On foot, it’s just over an hour all told from the Sesi to Sataria, where concrete steps
lead down to a tiny square-cut sea-pool, ideal for splashing around in. In the cave
behind are more pools where warm water bubbles through, reputed to be good for
curing rheumatism and skin diseases: a handful of people can usually be found jumping
from pools to sea. There’s room on the concrete apron around the pool to lay out a

towel, and it’s the only place for kilometres around with any shade – a nice place to
eat your picnic.

Scauri Porto and around

From the port at Scauri, on the west coast, you can see Cape Mustafa in Tunisia on a
clear day. The village itself is a steep twenty-minute walk above its harbour, and
consists of no more than a minuscule church perched on a shelf of land, surrounded by
a cluster of houses; it does at least hold a bakery, as well as an alimentari that does

decent panini, if you don’t feel like splashing out in one of the restaurants.

Beyond here is Rekale, an even smaller and more remote hamlet, beyond which the
extensive southeastern segment of the island, the Dietro Isola, curves round. Further
hot springs at Punto Nikà are most easily reached by boat, though you can get there on
foot.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING: SOUTHWEST COAST

La Nicchia Scauri 0923 916 342. This is one of the island’s most renowned
eateries, and is worth dressing up for. You can dine inside or in the garden beneath the

shade of an old orange tree, on such dishes as shrimps in a zibbibo sauce (see Eating
and drinking on Pantelleria) and the island speciality, mint- and tumma-stuffed ravioli
bathed in sage butter (both €13). Antipasti run at €9–13, and secondi are around €15.
Daily dinner only; closed Wed in low season.

La Vela Scauri Porto 0923 916 566. A very nice bar-restaurant, with a terrace right
on the portside, where you can eat ravioli with ricotta and mint (€10), grilled fish and

sweet, ricotta-filled baci. Open daily all day in summer; closed Nov–Easter.

Villaggio Punta Fram Contrada Camilla 0923 917 000, aurumhotels.it. Posh hotel
with a tennis court, a fine outdoor swimming pool and steps leading down to its own
little rocky cove, where guests can swim happily. Full board is obligatory. Closed

mid-Sept to mid-May. Doubles €252
The northeast coast

Although not the most striking part of the northeast coast, Bue Marino, some 1km east
of town, has reasonable swimming from the rocks, though a little further on, there is
better swimming from the flat rocks below the road junction to Bugeber.