Page 552 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

Mediterranean.

The island’s wine is well thought of too, made from the zibbibo grapes that grow
well in this volcanic soil. The day-to-day drinking stuff – vino pantesco – is mostly
white, with a nice fruity fragrance, while for something considerably stronger try the
fortified Moscato, a sweet, amber-coloured dessert wine. Even better is the raisin
wine, known generically as passito, which has a rich golden colour and a dry and
heady flavour – the best-known variety is Tanit.

If you’re self-catering, you’ll find all you need in the town’s supermarkets, bakery
and fruit and veg shops, though for a taste of traditional island life, buy fresh fish
from the stalls on the road to the hospital and the lighthouse, on the far side of the
harbour from the dock, and fruit and veg from the morning market (Tues & Fri) on
Via San Leonardo. Most shops are open daily in summer, and close Wednesday
afternoons and Sunday at other times.

RESTAURANTS

Acquamarina Via Borgo Italia 1 0923 911 422. This trendy little joint is the best-
placed restaurant in town, with large windows overlooking the harbour. There’s a
long menu, including fish couscous (€15). Daily lunch & dinner; closed Sun Oct–May.

Donne Fugate Corso Umberto I 10 334 760 3261. Small, rather unprepossessing
place where you can nevertheless indulge in an excellent selection of antipasti,
spaghetti alla menta e gamberi (with mint and prawns) and an unforgettable fish
couscous (Thurs only). You’ll pay around €40 for a full meal, drinks excluded. Mon–
Tues & Thurs–Sat dinner only.

Il Gabbiano Via Trieste 5 0923 911 909. Just off the seafront, this modest, white-

walled and vaulted trattoria offers some of the cheapest food in town: nothing
exceptional but the usual range of island specialities and a calm atmosphere. Pastas
are around €6–8, secondi €6–10. Daily lunch & dinner; closed Wed in winter.

La Risacca Via Errera 18 0923 912 975. At the end of the harbour, this busy
ristorante-pizzeria with a terrace has an array of grilled seafood and outdoor seating.
Try the ravioli con pomodoro, burro e salvia (with tomato, butter and sage €12), or,

in the evening, couscous alla pantesca, with fish, aubergine, peppers, courgette and
tomato (€16). Daily lunch & dinner; closed Mon in winter.

CAFÉS AND BARS

Café Aurora Via Borgo Italia 43 0923 911 313. With a fine seating area
overlooking the port, this bar serves classy aperitifs with olives and other nibbles.
Daily 10am–late; closed winter.