Page 518 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

has gone towards paving a couple of sections of track. However, such

“improvements” are still fairly low-key and, at least for now, the island retains its air
of being far off the beaten track.

MARETTIMO HIKES

None of the walks detailed here is particularly onerous, though you might have to
scramble at times. Always make sure you’re carrying enough water with you.

TO THE CASE ROMANE

Marettimo’s simplest walk takes you to some old Roman defensive works, the Case
Romane, which are still in pretty good condition. Climb up the road to the side of
Caffè Tramontana and, at the top, scout around to the left and then right to find the

signpost for the start of the walk. The remains are half an hour on, sitting next to a
small and dilapidated church that shows marked Arab characteristics but is thought
to have been built by Byzantine monks in the twelfth century.

TO CALA SARDE AND CALA NERA

Follow the road south of Marettimo port, turning inland after about 1km where the
path divides. There’s a steep climb, with the town’s cemetery below you, rising to

about 300m. After about half an hour, you’ll pass a pine forest and a small outhouse,
looking out on views towards Tunisia; below is the Cala Sarde, a small bay
reachable along a smaller path to the left in another half an hour.

Instead of descending to the bay, continue for about an hour on the main path along
the island’s rocky west coast. You’ll pass a lighthouse and a route down to Cala

Nera, where you can swim off the rocks in perfect isolation.

TO THE CASTLE AT PUNTA TROIA

This walk follows the footpath all the way to the northeastern tip of the island, a
hike that should take you around three hours; you’ll need a head for heights in certain
stretches. Go past the fishing harbour with the sea on your right, and keep to the
coast along the path for about ten minutes, until the terrace wall on your left stops.
When a sign here (“Castello Punta Troia”) points to the left, cut up to find the main

path on a small spur above you. This stretches along the whole length of the island
about 100m above the sea, ending at some concrete steps that descend to a lovely
secluded beach and the foot of the castle, perched on an impregnable rocky crag.
This precipitous fortification was originally built by the Saracens, enlarged by
Roger II, and further extended by the Spanish in the seventeenth century, when it

became a prison, and acquired a dire reputation for cruelty.