Page 517 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

route is essential. Winter tours only take place when the conditions are right – again,

always telephone ahead.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: LÉVANZO

By ferry and hydrofoil The port is just below the island’s only road, Via Calvario. In

summer both Siremar and Ustica Lines have ticket booths at the port; in winter, they
move into the town, out of reach of stormy waves (precise locations vary from year to
year). Services are good enough throughout the year to make day-trips from Trapani
and Favignana an easy prospect.

ACCOMMODATION

In summer, the island’s hotel will usually require a week’s minimum stay and only
accept guests on half-board terms, though as the only other options for food on
Lévanzo are two bars, an alimentari and a bakery, this is no hardship. In any case, the
food is good at both places. If you’re self-catering at the Lisola Residence, you may
want to bring supplies from the mainland, as the choice of food at the alimentary is a

bit limited.

Lisola Residence 0923 194 1530 or 320 180 9090, lisola.eu. Seven apartments
400m outside the port sleeping between two and four, occupying simple tufa cottages
originally built by nineteenth-century tuna-canning magnate Florio for his workers.
Extras include a large pool with parasols and sun-loungers, and free transport to the

port whenever you need it. Closed Nov–March. Two-person apartments €500

Paradiso 0923 924 080, albergoparadiso.eu. Close to the port, next to the bar,
this has a terrace-restaurant and marvellous sea views from the en-suite, air-
conditioned rooms, some of which are a bit cramped. Half-board doubles €170

Marettimo

Wildest and furthest out from Trapani, MARETTIMO was claimed by Samuel Butler,

in his The Authoress of the Odyssey, as the original Ithaca, home of Odysseus. Even
more far-fetched, Butler also thought that Homer himself was the princess Nausicaa of
ancient Trapani. These theories aside, there are compelling reasons to come to
Marettimo. Its spectacular fragmented coastline is pitted with rocky coves sheltering
hideaway beaches, several of which – such as those at Cala Sarde and Cala Nera on

the south coast, or at the Saracen castle at the northeastern point of the island – can be
reached by footpath. Even in high season, you’re likely to have much of Marettimo to
yourself, as few tourists can be bothered to visit a place with limited accommodation
and no more than half a dozen trattorias. That said, there are signs of heightened
interest these days in the shape of a sprinkling of new holiday homes, while EU money