Page 452 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

The “dwarf skyscrapers” A frequently recurring cityscape detail of the TV shows,
these occupy the ridge above the port at Porto Empedocle.

Montalbano’s flat rock The place the inspector comes to digest both his lunches
and the complexities of his current case lies at the end of the dock in Porto
Empedocle.

Chiesa Madre This church on Via Roma, the main street of Porto Empedocle,

provides the setting for several funerals, some of them Mafia affairs.

Via Granet This little street off Porto Empedocle’s Via Roma serves as the site of
former restaurant San Calogero, and the home of the observant Maestra Clementina
and the melancholy violinist.

Bar Kenia, Marinella A favourite meeting place for Montalbano and his Swedish
soul mate (and occasional lover) Ingrid, this bar is still functioning at the end of

Marinella beach.

Scala dei Turchi Meeting place for Montalbano and his informer and ex-
schoolmate, Gigi.

Da Enzo Montalbano’s favourite restaurant is open for business in Porto
Empedocle.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: PORTO EMPEDOCLE

By bus SAL buses for Porto Empedocle leave once or twice hourly from Agrigento’s
bus and train stations, six times on Sunday (a 15–20min journey), dropping you in

Piazza Italia, one block from the waterfront; the last bus from Agrigento leaves at 9pm
(7pm on Sun).

By ferry and hydrofoil Services to Lampedusa and Linosa leave from the town’s
dock.

Ferry Destinations Lampedusa (6 weekly; 8hr 15min); Linosa (6 weekly; 5hr 45min).

Hydrofoil Destinations Lampedusa (May–Oct 6 weekly; 4hr 15min); Linosa (May–

Oct 6 weekly; 3hr).

By taxi A taxi from Agrigento will cost about €25.

EATING AND DRINKING

La Lampara Via F. Crispi 3 339 490 6833. Housed in what looks like a long

wooden shed, a few minutes’ walk from the port along the seafront, offering an
abundant three-course meal plus good local wine for around €25. Open erratically for