Page 447 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

people as Arco Ubriaco, this house is higher up in town, close to Santo Spirito. There

are four small but clean rooms, and a kitchen-dining room for the use of guests. €60

Terrazze di Montelusa Piazza Lena 6 0922 28 556, terrazzedimontelusa.it.
Smart, clean and airy second-floor B&B at the far western end of the old town, with
large, fully equipped rooms and a charming, knowledgeable host who will offer useful
tips for the area and even trot out a few tunes on the piano if you ask nicely. There are
great views from the roof terraces, where a garden is being planned. Free internet. No

credit cards. €80

Villa Pirandello Via Francesco Crispi 34 0922 22 275, bbvillapirandello.it. A
Sicilian-Yorkshire family run this B&B in a nineteenth-century villa where the
dramatist Luigi Pirandello’s wife lived (and apparently chucked furniture out of the
windows at the barracks next door during one of the spells of madness to which she
was prone). With five rooms, a shady garden and a sunny terrace, a more therapeutic

post-temples spot is hard to imagine. And you don’t even need to leave for dinner, as
the La Terra restaurant is in its garden. Breakfasts are superb, featuring fresh fruit and
artisan pastries. €75

EATING AND DRINKING

Agrigento has a fairly good choice of restaurants, many clustered around Via Atenea
and offering some kind of menu turistico. Unsurprisingly, they tend to be a bit touristy,
though prices are usually low. There are two distinct areas for cafés and bars. The
town-centre passeggiata focuses on Via Atenea, and once the shops reopen in the late
afternoon the whole street is packed. To watch the action, choose a seat at one of the
little bars in Piazzale Aldo Moro, at the beginning of Via Atenea, a nice place to sit in

the early evening, despite the occasional burst of organ music from a local crooner.
For sunsets and views, stroll along the leafy Viale della Vittoria, where four or five
cafés cater to a local family crowd.

L’Ambasciate di Sicilia Via Giambertoni 2 0922 20 526. Fairly standard food in
folksy surroundings, though tables on the outdoor terrace provide one of the few good
views in town. The antipasto rustico, house pasta and involtini are good choices

(mains €7–9 for meat, €13–17 for fish dishes). Tues–Sun lunch & dinner, plus Mon
dinner Aug.

Antica Panelleria Musicò Viale della Vittoria s/n (no phone). This little van parked
at the beginning of Viale della Vittoria is an Agrigento institution, selling pane e
panelle (chickpea-flour fritters in soft bread rolls) since 1954. Daily 8.30am–1pm &
5–8.30pm.

Caffeteria Nobel Viale della Vittoria 11 0922 24 562. A relaxing spot for