Page 388 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

Baqqala Piazzetta Ficili 0932 931 028. On the steps above Palazzo Beneventano,
this shabby-chic osteria has lunchtime snacks and fuller meals in the evening (most
dishes €8–10). But it’s most fun for a drink at night, when you can lounge on the
divans outside, soaking up the mellow soundtrack. Tues–Sun lunch & dinner.

Conte Ruggero Piazza Italia 24 0932 931 840, conteruggero.it. Smart old B&B
in a restored palace on the main square, fine for a night or two. The spacious rooms

have a/c, and some have minibars and balconies. €90

Novecento Via Duprè 11 0932 843 817, hotel900.it. Occupying a Baroque
palazzo in the heart of town, this stylish hotel has fully equipped rooms with architect-
designed beds and arty but sumptuous bathrooms with Bisazza mosaic tiles. The tone
is contemporary and cultured, and staff are friendly and helpful. €90

Satra Via Duca degli Abruzzi 1 0932 842 148. This recently opened place in the

vaulted cellars of a former convent has a seasonally changing menu featuring
innovative versions of traditional dishes. There is a tasting menu priced at €75, but
choosing à la carte you can eat for considerably less. Try handmade spaghetti
flavoured with chilli, saffron and wild fennel, served with sardines, pine nuts and
toasted breadcrumbs. Mon & Wed–Sun lunch & dinner.

Scicli Albergo Diffuso Reception at Via Mormino Penna 15 0932 185 555,

sciclialbergodiffuso.it. A great idea this – accommodation on a B&B or self-catering
basis in one of eleven restored houses scattered around the historic town centre. Two-
person apartments €75

< Back to Siracusa and the southeast

Ragusa

A Baroque town laid out on a grid system over a mountain plateau, RAGUSA has two
very distinct identities. The 1693 earthquake destroyed many towns and cities that
were then rebuilt in a different form, but the unique effect on Ragusa was to split the

city in two. The old town of Ragusa Ibla, on a jut of land above its valley, was
comprehensively flattened, and within a few years a new town on a grid plan emerged
on the higher ridge to the west, known simply as Ragusa (or Ragusa Superiore).
However, Ibla was stubbornly rebuilt by its inhabitants, following the old medieval
street layout. Rivalry between the two was commonplace until 1926, when both towns

were nominally reunited.