Page 385 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

opposite the Agip petrol station towards the top of the Corso (where you’ll have to

park), and follow the steps up around the passageway for the signposted “bed, bike
and breakfast”. €35

EATING AND DRINKING

La Gazza Ladra Via Blandini 5 0932 755 655, ristorantelagazzaladra.it. Top-
class restaurant that’s part of the Palazzo Failla hotel, offering creative and
exquisitely presented Sicilian cuisine (spaghetti with anchovies, candied orange, wild
fennel flowers, chilli and wild-onion greens; a fillet of Nébrodi mountain pork, with a
cream of pine nuts and asparagus). Degustazione menus at €65 and €80 a head plus
drinks. Daily lunch & dinner.

La Locanda del Colonnello Vico Biscari 6 0932 752 423. Done up like a
traditional locanda, with chequered tiled walls, a pietra pece (local limestone,
naturally impregnated with petroleum) floor below cantilevered white vaults, and
evocative photos of old Modica on its walls. Heavy napery and good service,
however, remind you that this is a Palazzo Failla enterprise. The mixed antipasto
(€9) is highly recommended: sardine polpettine with wild fennel, a crisp scacce
(savoury pastry) with a reduced tomato filling, pepper- and fennel-seed studded

salami, a sformatino of asparagus, and a miniature arancino. Primi are all €9, and
make great use of legumes in dishes such as maccu, a traditional fava bean
puree/soup, or pasta with chickpeas. Secondi (€10) include sausages and pancetta in a
stickily reduced tomato sauce. Mon–Tues & Thurs–Sun lunch & dinner.

Osteria dei Sapori Perduti Corso Umberto 1 228–30 0932 944 247. Right on the
Corso, offering reasonably priced rustic dishes with a strong emphasis on beans and

pulses. The abundant mixed antipasto (€7.50) is a good way to start, and enough for
two people, followed by lolli con le fave (handmade pasta with fava bean puree) or
pasta with broth and meatballs. Primi are around €6. The menu is in Sicilian, but
translations are available, and it’s marvellous value – you can walk away with a full
stomach for €10–15. Mon & Wed–Sun lunch & dinner.

Taverna Nicastro Via S. Antonino 30 0932 945 884. For traditional meat (and
especially pork) dishes, try this delightfully old-fashioned and very reasonably priced

trattoria with tables outside on a flight of steps in Modica Alta. Specialities include
sausages and salamis made on the premises, good hearty legume dishes, and classic
Modican fare such as ricotta ravioli with a sauce of tomato, pancetta, sausage and
pork. Secondi highlights include rabbit with potato, olives, tomato and pork, and lamb
stewed with tomato, capers, cherry tomatoes and onion. You could eat a four-course

meal (including a cannolo or a lemon, cinnamon or almond jelly) for under €20, while
house wine is €4 per litre. Nicastro is signposted from outside San Giorgio, but it’s