Page 208 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

Sicily. Prices for August are at least double those charged in low season, and often

rates can as much as triple. For example, a hotel charging €200 for a double room
with breakfast in August would probably cost €60 in early spring and late autumn,
€80 in May or October, €100 in June or September, €120 in July. Many places also
insist on half board (mezza pensione, ie dinner, bed and breakfast) and multi-night
stays in high season. It’s wise to book ahead if you plan on visiting at this time – but
thankfully August is arguably the least appealing month for non-Italians to visit, with

the heat and crowds making it hard to get a sense of the true identities of the islands.

Ferries and hydrofoils ply between the islands year-round – their arrival is often
the high point of the day in a place like Alicudi, with a permanent population of
around a hundred. Services are reduced out of season (basically Oct–May), but you
should still be able to reach most islands daily. Indeed, visiting outside peak season

is highly recommended, since there’s a refreshing absence of other tourists, and
accommodation rates plummet accordingly. However, be warned that many hotels
and restaurants close their doors for the entire winter, while if the weather turns,
you’re in danger of being stuck for days – the archipelago is frequently lashed by
storms between October and March. Even in summer high winds and storms can
strike, and heavy seas can mean the cancellation of ferry and hydrofoil services to

both the mainland and the other islands. If this happens, there’s no alternative to
sitting and waiting the storm out.

There are ATMs on all the islands except Alicudi. Power cuts are commonplace,
caused by storms in winter, and in August by over-demand, so a torch is a good idea,
especially in winter. Don’t be surprised if hotels ask you to be sparing with the
water, as it’s imported by tanker.

GETTING AROUND

Inter-island ferries and hydrofoils Travelling between the Aeolians is easy, as
ferries and hydrofoils link all the islands. The schedules detailed in this chapter are

for year-round services; visit the company websites to get details of the increased
summer sailings, which vary from year to year. In winter, services are reduced, and in
rough weather may be cancelled altogether, particularly on the routes out to Stromboli,
Alicudi and Filicudi. Ferries can sail in stormier conditions than hydrofoils, but even
these are cancelled on occasion. However, as long as your schedule is not too tight,
travelling around the islands out of season is perfectly feasible – especially if you

base yourself on Vulcano, Lipari and Salina, taking side trips to remoter islands when
conditions permit. Reliable sources for weather forecasts include windfinder.com.

DRIVING IN THE AEOLIANS