Page 207 - The Rough Guide of Sicily
P. 207
Ferry destinations (June to mid-Sept) Vulcano (1 daily; 1hr 30min); Lipari (1 daily;
1hr 50min), Santa Marina Salina (1 daily; 1hr 25min); Rinella (1 daily; 1hr 45min).
DEPARTURES FROM PALERMO
Getting to Palermo Coming from the west of Sicily (or arriving at Palermo airport),
it makes far more sense to use the Ustica Lines hydrofoil services from Palermo,
which run daily in summer. However, note that these services are routed first via
Alicudi and Filicudi, which makes for a long and expensive trip (with a change at
Lipari) if you’re heading directly for Panarea or Stromboli, for example. Note also
that this route – much of it out in the unprotected open sea – is particularly subject to
delays, so don’t cut things too close if returning from the Aeolians to take a flight from
Palermo.
Hydrofoil destinations Alicudi (1 daily; 2hr); Filicudi (1 daily; 2hr 30min); Lipari (1
daily; 4hr); Milazzo (1 daily; 5hr 30min); Panarea (1 daily; 4hr 40min); Rinella (1
daily; 3hr 15min); Santa Marina Salina (1 daily; 3hr 30min), Stromboli (1 Daily; 5hr
20min).
DEPARTURES FROM NAPLES
By ferry The most direct way to get to the islands from central Italy is by ferry from
Naples, with departures twice weekly (Tues & Fri) throughout the year at 8pm
(weather permitting); ferries return to Naples on Mon and Thurs. If you’re heading to
or departing from Salina, note that ferries alternate between using the ports of Rinella
and Santa Marina, though in winter the choice of port will depend on weather
conditions. The Friday service from Naples is the only one that calls at Filicudi – on
all other services you will need to change at Rinella or Santa Marina Salina. Note that
delays of a couple of hours or so are not unusual.
Ferry destinations Filicudi (1 weekly; 13hr, 15min); Ginostra (2 weekly; 10hr
20min); Lipari (2 weekly; 13hr 30min–15hr 30min); Milazzo (2 weekly; 16hr–18hr);
Panarea (2 weekly; 11hr 15min); Rinella (1 weekly; 14hr 20min); Santa Marina Salina
(1 weekly; 12hr 30min); Stromboli (2 weekly; 9hr 40min); Vulcano (2 weekly; 14hr
15min–16hr 10min).
VISITING THE AEOLIANS
Aeolian food is among the most distinctive in Italy, fish of course providing the
mainstay but with the traditional crops of capers, olives and mountain herbs
flavouring most dishes, while the malvasia grapes provide one of Sicily’s more
ancient wines. Other foods (as well as much of the water on some islands) have to
be imported, so restaurants tend towards the expensive, as do hotels and B&Bs.
Accommodation rates in the Aeolians fluctuate a lot more than in other parts of