Page 144 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

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Mondello

On a hot summer’s day, when the city heat is oppressive, the most obvious escape
from central Palermo is the 11km run to MONDELLO, a small seaside resort tucked
under the northern bluff of Monte Pellegrino. A 2km-long sandy beach fronts the town,
and there’s also a tiny working harbour, a jetty from which you can try your luck
fishing, and the remnants of a medieval tower. In July and August, like most Sicilian
resorts, it’s a bit of a zoo, featuring tacky souvenir stalls, hot-dog and burger vans,

pumped-up pizza places and packed lidos. At night, there’s a crush in the bars in the
main square while the roads around are filled with cruising cars and preening youth. In
winter it’s more laidback and rarely busy, but many of the restaurants and snack stalls
stay open and it’s usually warm enough to swim until well past the end of the official
season.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: MONDELLO

By bus To get to Mondello, take bus #806 or #833 from Piazza Politeama or Viale
della Libertà – a thirty-minute ride. The last bus back to town leaves around midnight.

By car Driving to Mondello, exit at the Tommaso Natale junction from the main road.

By taxi A taxi from Palermo costs about €35.

EATING

There’s a line of trattorias along the seafront at Mondello – some with outdoor

terraces – though the quality is patchy (have a good look at the fish on display in the
fridges before you decide where to eat).

Da Calogero Via Torre 22 091 684 1333. Right on the seafront, this is the best
traditional choice in Mondello. You stand up at the window and eat freshly caught and
cooked octopus (they do have chairs and tables these days, but standing is de rigueur).
Daily lunch & dinner.

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Monreale

The major excursion from the city – rated almost unmissable – is to MONREALE, a
small hill-town 8km southwest of Palermo. It commands unsurpassed views down the
Conca d’Oro valley, with the capital shimmering in the distant bay, and while the
panorama from the “Royal Mountain” alone is worth making the trip for, the real draw
is the mighty Norman cathedral and its celebrated mosaics. These form one of the most