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empire, now Mexico City.

              The glyphs of places on the lienzo have been matched up to towns and villages of

          today, and their arrangement on it corresponds to their arrangement in the actual
          landscape: the lienzo is also a map. Some of the rulers’ buildings and churches
          drawn on this one still exist today.

              The whole thing was created by the Mixtec to record the story of their people, to
          show that their rulers were legitimate, and that their power had been felt in the area
          right back to the beginning of time. It was created around the time the Spanish
          conquistadors arrived in the country, in response to the dramatic changes this caused
          in the region. Neither the Aztec conquest of the region (1458–62) nor the Spanish

          conquest (1519–21) is drawn on the lienzo.
              Until the Spanish arrived, the Aztecs had ruled over the Mixtecs, demanding

          tribute from them in the form of gold, turquoise, woven clothing and quetzal feathers.
          When the Spaniards came, they embarked on a profound reorganization of the native
          culture, including their religion and settlement patterns. They also brought awful
          diseases. Recent archaeological research suggests the population of Coixtlahuaca
          may have dropped during the sixteenth century from perhaps 75,000 to just a few
          thousand people. (Today, the valley holds only small villages, since many native

          people have decided to migrate elsewhere.)
              There are 11 extant lienzos from this area of Mexico, painted by the valley’s

          Chocho and Mixtec inhabitants in the decades after the Spanish conquered Mexico.
          They were created because the ruling houses were trying to preserve their status and
          hold their communities together in the face of all the turmoil created by outsiders.
          This beautiful lienzo, which lives wrapped in pillows, is the largest, most
          comprehensive and most highly prized of them all.

              When the ROM purchased it from Constantine Rickards, the British consul
          general, they did not know it had been stolen. It came into their collection in 1919
          and for a long time its origins were obscure. Decades later, a music journalist from

          Toronto, Ross Parmenter, became interested in the lienzo and decided to work out
          where it was from. He ended up in the village of Tlapiltepec, where an elderly man
          remembered it having been stolen by a legal assistant who had been working on a
          land dispute case between the village and two neighbouring villages. The lienzo was
          key evidence. The legal assistant stole it and sold it for 400 pesos to Rickards, who
          sold it on to the ROM.

              They recently decided to create a lifesize version of it, as it would have looked, in
          its original colours, so that visitors to the ROM would be able to learn about the

          lienzo that lives in storage. This was a tricky task, as the colours have faded so much
          that today all you can see on the original are the black outlines of the glyphs, drawn
          in soot made from burnt bones or wood.

              They also used a 1910 tracing of the lienzo they had found in Berlin, and
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