Page 59 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

is vino alla mándorla, almond wine served ice-cold. Spirits are known mostly by
their generic names, except brandy which you should call cognac or ask for by name –
again, for cheaper Italian brands, ask for nazionale. At some stage you should also try
an amaro (literally “bitter”), a remarkably medicinal after-dinner drink supposed to
aid digestion. The favourite brand is Averna (from Caltanissetta) but there are dozens

of different kinds. Look out, too, for artisan or home-made rosolio, alcohol infused
with herbs or spices such as bay leaves, wild fennel, rose petal or cinnamon.

SICILIAN WINE

Over the past few years Sicilian wines have built an increasingly prestigious

reputation. There’s no shortage of the stuff either – the island often produces more
wine in a year than any other Italian region, and as much as the whole of Australia.
Typical of the wines making waves are those made from the local Nero d’Ávola
grape variety (a hearty red, similar to a Syrah/Shiraz), which is well suited to the
dry climate. Other Sicilian regions produce very distinct tastes, too, like the dry reds

and whites made from grapes grown on the volcanic slopes of Etna; Cerasuolo di
Vittoria (red and white) from vines in the area around Ragusa; and the famous
Malvasia grapes of the Aeolian Islands. Boutique wineries are springing up all over
Sicily – Etna and the Ragusa area are good destinations for a cantina-crawl – though

the major brands, with decent mid-price wines that you’ll see everywhere, include
Corvo, Nicosia, Planeta, Donnafugata and Regaleali. Settesoli is a reliable budget
brand sold at most supermarkets, while many market stalls and alimentari sell local
wine in unlabelled plastic bottles for around €2 a litre.

Where to drink

In most town and village bars, it’s cheapest to drink standing up at the counter (there’s

often nowhere to sit anyway), in which case you pay first at the cash desk (la cassa),
present your receipt (scontrino) to the bar person and give your order. There’s always
a list of prices (the listino prezzi) on display, and when you present your receipt it’s
customary to leave a small tip on the counter – though no one will object if you don’t.
It’s more expensive to sit down inside than stand up (the difference in price is shown
on the price list as tavola) and it costs up to twice the basic price if you sit at tables
outside (terrazza).

Although bars have no set licensing hours, outside the cities it’s often difficult to find
a bar open much after 9pm. Children are allowed in and bars, like restaurants, are
smoke-free (strictly enforced), though if you’re drinking or eating outside it’s fine to
smoke. Tourist bars and cafés are open later, but they’re more expensive than the
typical chrome-counter-and-Gaggia-machine local joints.