Page 537 - The Rough Guide of Sicily
P. 537
You may well be offered rooms as you get off the bus, which are worth accepting in
summer when the hotels and pensions in the village fill rapidly.
Garzia Via A. Pigafetta 2 0924 46 024, hotelgarzia.com. This large, Arabic-
themed hotel on the seafront road lacks charm, but it has a wide range of rooms (some
with sea-facing balconies), friendly staff and its own patch of beach. The restaurant
offers good set-price menus. €89
Il Pescatore Via Castore e Polluce 31 0924 46 303,
affittacamereilpescatore.it. With a roof terrace that enjoys views over to the temples
and sea, this place offers eight good-sized rooms with private bathrooms and a/c or
fans, breakfast (that includes fresh fruit) on the terrace plus use of a kitchen.
Alternatively, you can sleep on the roof for €15, and there are also four self-catering
apartments. No credit cards. Doubles and two-person apartments €80
Porta del Sole Via Apollonio Rodio 32 0924 46 035. A B&B offering four basic
rooms with private or shared bathrooms, and there are five larger ones with balconies
(not that there’s a view) in the Holiday House across the road, run by the same family.
Furniture and beds are from the visit-grandma school of comfort. No credit cards. €40
Sicilia Cuore Mio Via della Cittadella 44 0924 46 077 or 336 612 769,
siciliacuoremio.it. Right across from the archeological site, and with a long terrace
overlooking the sea in front, this friendly, modern B&B offers five rooms, three with a
sea view and two of them in a separate building next door with a kitchen for guests’
use. Closed Dec–March. €80
EATING AND DRINKING
Most of the best eating and drinking places are located on Via Marco Polo, the road
above the west beach. That starts down at the little harbour where a couple of bars put
out tables from which you can watch the sun set, while the fishermen chatter and
dispute among themselves. At night in summer, visitors emerge from their holiday
homes to join locals from the surrounding villages on foot, in cars and on Vespas, and
the party chugs along merrily until well after midnight. If you are wanting to take a
picnic up to the temple, there’s an alimentari nearby on Via Caboto, while beyond it,
in the main residential district, you’ll find a supermarket behind the Alceste hotel.
Africa da Bruno Via Alceste 0924 46 456. In the residential district, this cheerful
trattoria with bright white walls offers superlative antipasti (€4–10) and locally
inspired fish dishes such as pasta with seafood (€10.50). In the evenings, you can
enjoy crispy pizzas (from €5) cooked in a wood-burning oven. March–July Mon–Wed
& Fri–Sun lunch & dinner; Aug daily lunch & dinner; closed Nov–Feb.
Baffo’s Via Marco Polo 51 0924 46 211. Sea views and a good menu that includes