Page 531 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

where you can sit outside opposite a seventeenth-century palazzo. Snack on cheeses,

cold meats, panini and salads, or go for a range of tasty pizzas (around €7). There are
also some meat and fish dishes (€8–15), and a fantastic range of wines. Daily dinner
only.

E&N Via XI Maggio 130 0923 951 969. This classy pasticceria and gelateria has
a small courtyard which makes for a nice place to sit and savour a pistachio ice cream
or decadent pastry. There are savouries, too, at lunchtime. Mon–Tues & Thurs–Sun

8am–8pm.

Il Gallo e l’Innamorata Via S. Bilardello 18 0923 195 4446. Small and friendly
osteria with great food, including bruschetta with tuna, salami and tomato (€6), grilled
fish (€5 per 100g) and, in season, busiate con ragù di tonno (pasta with tuna sauce;
€12). Prices are very reasonable – you can eat abundantly for €30 per head including
drinks. Mon & Wed–Sun lunch & dinner.

< Back to Trapani and the west

Mazara del Vallo

The North African element in Sicily’s cultural melange is at its strongest in the major
fishing port of MAZARA DEL VALLO, 22km down the coast from Marsala. Under
the Muslims, Mazara was one of Sicily’s most prosperous towns and capital of the
biggest of the three administrative districts, or walis, into which the island was
divided – hence the “del Vallo” tag. The first Sicilian city to be taken by the Arabs,

and the last they surrendered, Mazara’s prosperity lasted for 250 years, coinciding
with the height of Arab power in the Mediterranean. Count Roger’s anxiety to
establish a strong Norman presence in this Muslim powerbase ensured that Mazara’s
importance lasted long after his conquest of the city in 1087, and it didn’t give up its
rank as provincial capital until Trapani took over in 1817.

The Arab links have revived since the port became the prime Sicilian destination for

Tunisian immigrants flocking across the sea to work in the vast fishing fleet – one of
Italy’s biggest. Indeed, wandering through Mazara’s casbah-like backstreets, there are
moments when you could imagine yourself to be in North Africa, passing Tunisian
shops and a café plastered with pictures of the Tunisian president, and Arab music
percolating through small doorways. For the visitor, the attraction of Mazara is its
profusion of fine churches in a slowly reviving – though far from genteel – old town.
The tree-shaded lungomare and seafront gardens add another facet to its character, and

with a row of sea-view restaurants, Mazara is one of the few towns in the west to
make the most of its coastal location.