Page 487 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

Following the Sentiero Basso, it takes less than twenty minutes to reach the first
beach, Cala Capreria, which can as a result be crowded at weekends and in July and
August. When it’s not, it’s perfect: a tiny cove of white pebbles, azure water, shoals of
little fish nibbling at the edge and baby squid darting in and out. A small Museo

Naturalistico and visitor centre stand just above the beach. Further up the coast,
another twenty minutes or so onward, there’s a museum above Cala del Varo
dedicated to manna and the flowering manna-ash, examples of which grow hereabouts.

Sticking with the coastal path, it’s 3km from the southern entrance to the successive
coves of Disa, Berretta and Marinella, which should be a little more secluded. The

next cove, Cala dell’Uzzo, holds a museum of rural life, while the Cala Tonnarella
dell’Uzzo, 7km from the southern entrance, has a museum of fishing and other marine
activity.

The northern entrance

The northern entrance to the reserve (Ingresso Nord) is 11km southeast of San Vito
Lo Capo. Accessible by your own transport or on a boat trip from San Vito, it’s also a

fine walk from the town, initially following the road along the lungomare from San
Vito and across the flat headland, before winding up into the mountains. In the higher
reaches, the views are exhilarating, with the surrounding scenery almost alpine in
character – fir trees, flowers edging the road, and the clank of bells from goats
roaming the hillsides. Sadly, though, the road through this secluded and dramatic
landscape offers few opportunities to descend to the alluringly deserted coves below.

The access road to the reserve is signposted just before the ruined Torre

dell’Impiso, around a three-hour walk from San Vito. From the sign to the park
entrance itself is about another 1km, following a gravel track and then a path, which
runs down into the reserve, past the Tonnara dell’Uzzo. The beautiful little cove-
beach below the entrance offers translucent water, with glorious peace and quiet all

around – at least, whenever the first few little creeks here aren’t inundated with
bathers. Travel on for less crowded spots, or else take one of the higher paths for
greater isolation. Scopello is a 10km walk south from the San Vito entrance.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: RISERVA NATURALE DELLO

ZINGARO

By bus Russo buses have a summer-only service from Castellammare del Golfo to the
southern entrance.

Tourist information There are information huts at the Ingresso Sud and Ingresso Nord

entrances. You can pick up a simple map showing the trails through the reserve –
though as it’s not entirely accurate it should be treated with some scepticism.