Page 479 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

dam built outside nearby Partinico – something that was resisted at every turn by the

Mafia and their political clients, who controlled the existing water supplies.
Inevitably, Dolci stirred up the opposition not just of the Mafia, but of the police, the
church, and – eventually – even local people, who accused him of publicity-seeking
and ill-conceived campaigns, and though twice nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize,
he spent the last twenty years of his life in obscurity. Today, the area presents a far
more prosperous face, and the beaches on either side of Trappete and Balestrate,

backed by orange groves, are regularly visited by Palermitan holidaymakers.
However, this economic reversal is more a reflection of the general improvement in
Sicilian standards of living during the late twentieth century than of Dolci’s
campaigning.

Alcamo

Just inside the Trapani provincial boundary, ALCAMO was founded by Frederick II
early in the thirteenth century. Good wine is made from Alcamo grapes, and the town,
spread across a low hill with views towards the coast, has also become known thanks
to the atmospheric descriptions in Mary Taylor Simeti’s classic memoir On
Persephone’s Island (1986), much of which is set hereabouts. Otherwise, Alcamo

will mainly be of interest to fans of medieval castles: adjacent to the broad main
Piazza della Repubblica, the fourteenth-century Castello dei Conti di Modica in
Piazza Castello has a small collection of archeological scraps and farming items as
well as the headquarters of the regional wine association; however, the building was
closed for restoration at the time of writing following the appearance of cracks in its

walls. Alcamo also boasts some fine ecclesiastical architecture, its largely Baroque
churches all found along and around the lengthy main street of the old town, Corso VI
Aprile. The Chiesa Madre on the Corso is typical, with its bold frescoes and
elaborate sculptures by members of the Gagini family.

If you have your own transport, Monte Bonifato (825m), 5km south of Alcamo – a

well-signposted climb up a corkscrew road – is worth the drive for the panoramic
views from the top.

ALCAMO’S SPAS

Alcamo’s excellent, good-value spas may well tempt you to spend a few days here.

The Stabilimento Termale Gorga ( 0924 23 842, termegorga.com), is a thermal
spa where you can bathe in the exquisitely hot pool (€7) or take other treatments
such as a mud bath (€15) or sauna (€12). You can also stay comfortably here
(double €60) – guests have free access to the pool – and there’s a ristorante-
pizzeria. It’s just a couple of hundred metres along the right-hand dirt track from the