Page 415 - The Rough Guide of Sicily
P. 415
English notes throughout, and there’s unlikely to be another soul around save the
slumbering attendants.
Santo Spirito
Alongside the Museo Archeologico, the restored twelfth-century abbey church of
Santo Spirito was founded by Count Roger and – a rare thing in Sicily – is purely
Norman in form. The plain structure is only enlivened by three tiny apses at the back,
though the interior has a fifteenth-century fresco over the central apse and a twelfth-
century font. If the church is locked, you can try ringing at the door on the right (home
of the parish priest).
ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: CALTANISSETTA
By bus Caltanissetta’s bus station is at Piazza Roma, outside the train station, about a
10min walk from Piazza Garibaldi.
Destinations Agrigento (3–4 daily Mon–Sat, 1 daily Sun; 1hr 35min); Catania (13
daily Mon–Sat, 8 daily Sun; 1hr 35min); Enna (4–5 daily Mon–Sat; 50min); Palermo
(7–10 daily Mon–Sat, 4 daily Sun; 1hr 40min); Piazza Armerina (5–8 daily; 30min).
By train Although buses are usually faster and more frequent, Caltanissetta has
reasonable train connections with Enna, Palermo, Catania and Agrigento, but if you’re
heading to Enna it’s easier to take the bus, as the town’s train station is a long way out
from the centre. Going the other way, the railway line meanders northwest, ultimately
to Palermo, through empty upland plains, one of the most desert-like of Sicilian
journeys.
Destinations Agrigento (5–6 daily Mon–Sat, 2 daily Sun; 1hr 25min); Catania (7–8
daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 40min); Enna (7 daily Mon–Sat, 5 daily Sun; 35min); Gela (3–4
daily; 2hr); Grammichele (7–9 daily Mon–Sat; 15min); Licata (3–4 daily; 1hr 20min);
Palermo (4 daily; 2hr).
By car There’s currently cheap on-street parking all over town. Note that there is no
entry to the Piazza Garibaldi or surrounding streets between 5pm and 8.30pm, while
the evening passeggiata is in progress.
ACCOMMODATION AND EATING
Azienda Agricola Silvia Sillitti 0934 930 733 or 338 763 4601, sillitti.it.
Some 12km out of town off the SS640 Agrigento road, this wonderful agriturismo is
set on a working organic farm of olive and almond groves, wheat fields and vegetable
plots. There are rustic rooms in three apartments, expansive terraces with views on all
sides, hammocks in the shade and a sparkling swimming pool. Silvia is a charming