Page 368 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

The site was first used between the thirteenth and the tenth centuries BC by Sikel

refugees from the coast. After the eighth century BC, it is thought to have been the
location of the city of Hybla, whose king invited Megarian Greeks to colonize Megara
Hyblaea; remains from this era are visible, but all pale into insignificance in contrast
with the five thousand or so tombs hewn out of the gorge below. In some were found
the traces of several separate skeletons, probably of the same family, while others

show evidence of habitation – though much later, when the Syracusans themselves
were forced to flee inland from barbarian incursions. The atmosphere is primeval and
almost sinister – for Vincent Cronin, even something terrifying: “Here is Sicily of the
stone age, intent on nothing higher than the taking of food and the burial of its dead.”
For Cronin, the free play of nature in this ravine embodied Sicily’s own particular
contribution to the man-made wonders bestowed later by the island’s conquerors, and
as such – symbolized by a honeycomb he came across in one of the caves – the object

of the quest described in his book, The Golden Honeycomb (1954).

The site

The road ends at a parking area at the entrance to the northern necropolis, 6km from
Sortino (follow the signs). An obvious but rocky path leads around a plateau, then

down to the river and up the other side (where there’s another parking area, but this
time accessed from Ferla – the road was originally planned to span the gorge, but
never completed). You’ll soon see the tombs, first just dotting the walls of the valley
in clusters and finally puncturing the whole vertical cliff face – this last view is about
1km, or a thirty-minute walk, from the parking area. There are superb views from the
higher reaches, and the path and rock-cut steps remain good all the way.

You can continue down across the river and up the other side of the gorge, where the
road begins again and runs west to Ferla, another 9km beyond. This is the upper road
to Ferla, with a parking area allowing access to the foundations of the Anaktoron, or
prince’s palace, a building from ancient Hybla, and to the southern necropolis, where
more rock tombs are visible. A lower road from Ferla has another parking area, from
where you can stroll easily along the bottom of the gorge for a while.

ACCOMMODATION AND EATING: PANTALICA

Il Giardino di Pantalica Via Orazio Motta Tornabene 3 095 712 2680,
pantalica.it. An agriturismo on an estate within the Pantalica natural reserve; to get

there take the Siracusa road from Ferla, and enter (after 3km) via the park entrance.
There are one- and two-bedroom apartments and a summer swimming pool, and as for
food, there are barbecue facilities and a restaurant (open daily if there are guests)
specializing in local meat, where you can eat for €20–25 per head. No credit cards.
€70