Page 362 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

of each other. Prices are on the high side for Sicily, though there are few nicer places

in Sicily to sit outside in a medieval street or courtyard and while the evening away.
Ortigia also has excellent bars – from Italian-style pubs to cocktail joints – and most
of the late-night action is concentrated on the streets and alleys near the Fonte Aretusa,
particularly around Piazzetta San Rocco and along Lungomare Alfeo.

CAFÉS

Caffè d’Ortigia Largo XXV Luglio 349 628 9674; map. Opposite the Temple of
Apollo, on bustling Largo XXV Luglio, this is not only a great spot for people-
watching, but has friendly staff and great cornetti filled with fresh ricotta. Daily 6am–
9pm.

Gran Caffè del Duomo Piazza del Duomo 18 0931 21584; map. Bang in front of
the cathedral, this is the place to sit and watch life pass by over a lazy breakfast or

aperitif – staff are friendly and attentive and its prices are so reasonable that even
street-sweepers and dustmen stop by for a coffee on their morning rounds. Cornetti
here are more like brioche than croissants – try them filled to order with fresh ricotta.
Tues–Sun 8am–late.

Viola Via Roma 43 331 861 8415; map. Light and buttery, the best cornetti in town
are made by Viola, though if you hang out here for any length of time, you will realize

that constant repetition of their sole Norah Jones CD is a torture to rank alongside
anything dreamed up by Japanese game-show directors. Daily 7.30am–9pm.

RESTAURANTS

Apollonion Via Campisi 18 0931 483 362 or 349 535 4189; map. You’ll feast on
some of the best seafood in town at this quietly elegant family-run eatery, though
there’s no menu. Instead, you’ll be pampered with a succession of superbly prepared
dishes – from such starters as a mix of sardines, swordfish and shrimps in olive oil to

mussels in a garlicky broth, baked langoustines and fritto misto, served with delicious
rustic bread – all for €35. There’s a small lunchtime à la carte menu as well. Booking
recommended. Mon–Tues & Thurs–Sun lunch & dinner.

Arrusti e Mangia Ronco Cristina 3 333 644 0847; map. Hidden in a dead-end
Ronco behind Corso Umberto, just across the bridge from Ortigia, this is a very
simple place, run and owned by butcher Ciccio and his childhood friend Mauro. It

offers a fixed-price set menu (€18) of antipasti, charcoal-grilled meats and wine. It is
always full. At present only the interior is open, but they have applied for permission
to put tables outside in the Ronco. Thurs–Sat 8pm–midnight, Sun 1–3pm.

Castello Fiorentino Via del Crocifisso 6 0931 21 097; map. The finest pizzas in the
city centre – people queue out of the door waiting for tables. It’s really good value,