Page 339 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

Siracusa

More than any other Sicilian city, SIRACUSA (ancient Syracuse) has a past that is
central not just to the island’s history, but to that of the entire Mediterranean. Its
greatest splendour belongs to antiquity. Syracuse established its ascendancy over other
Sicilian cities for more than five hundred years, and at its height was the supreme
power in Europe, home to at least three times its present population. Its central
position on the major trade routes ensured that even after its heyday the port continued

to wield influence and preserve its prestige. All this is reflected in a staggering
diversity of monuments, spanning the Hellenic, early Christian, medieval, Renaissance
and Baroque eras – the styles are often shoulder-to-shoulder, sometimes in the same
building. It’s one of the most enjoyable cities in Sicily, with a fascinating old town
and outlying archeological and leisure areas that can easily occupy three or four days,
if not a week, of your time.

As for two and a half thousand years, the city is still divided between its ancient hub,

the island of Ortigia, and the four mainland quarters of Achradina, Tyche, Neapolis
and Epipolae. Ortigia is the heart and soul of Siracusa, a predominantly medieval and
Baroque ensemble of mansions and palaces, and home to most of the city’s best
B&Bs, hotels, cafés and restaurants. Across the bridge on the mainland, the modern
city is centred on Achradina, now, as in Greek times, the busy commercial centre,
traversed by the main street of Corso Gelone. North of Achradina, the old residential

quarter of Tyche holds Siracusa’s celebrated Museo Archeologico and the
extraordinary Santa Lucia and San Giovanni catacombs – after those in Rome,
Siracusa’s catacombs constitute the largest system of subterranean tombs in Italy, and

are the oldest in Sicily. Neapolis is the site of the Parco Archeologico, containing
remains of the Greek city’s theatres and some extensive quarries, while spread over
the ridge to the west of town, Epipolae holds the old defensive walls and the remnants
of the Euryalus fort. Other obvious trips out of the city are to the local beaches,
particularly that at Fontane Bianche, or a cruise along the Fiume Ciane (Ciane
River).