Page 330 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

of the late nineteenth century – the virus couldn’t pass through volcanic powder,

sand or snow. The richness and complexity of the grapes grown here has led several
producers to rebel against the trend of ageing wines in small wood barriques,
preferring instead to use stainless-steel vats or even ceramic amphorae, so that there
is nothing to interfere with the natural taste of the grape. At the vanguard of this
movement are the highly talented Tuscan wine-producer Andrea Franchetti, whose

Etna vineyards produce the international award-winning Passopisciaro ( 366 358
9926, passopisciaro.com); and eccentric Belgian Frank Cornelissen (no phone;
frankcornelissen.it), who spurns the use of sulphates in wines such as Magma and
Munjibello, which now enjoy a cult following (especially in Japan) for their extreme
unpredictability. These days Etna even has a celebrity winemaker in Mick Hucknall
of Simply Red, who owns the Il Cantante vineyard ( 095 716 9255,

ilcantante.com and 393 189 8430, quincunx.it) on the eastern slope of Etna,
near Sant’Alfio, and who is working with one of the volcano’s most highly regarded
winemakers, the pioneer, environmentalist and visionary Salvo Foti, who has an
almost mystical approach to winemaking. You can get a (free) tour of all the above
vineyards by appointment.

ARRIVAL AND INFORMATION: RANDAZZO

By Circumetnea train Arriving on the Circumetnea, walk straight up Via Vittorio
Véneto to reach the central Piazza Loreto, with the medieval town further on, down

Via Umberto I.

Destinations Catania (up to 7 daily Mon–Sat; 2hr 20min); Linguaglossa (4 daily
Mon–Sat; 35min); Riposto (4 daily Mon–Sat; 1hr 10min).

By bus The bus station is a couple of blocks back from Piazza Loreto off Via Vittorio
Véneto. There are frequent connections with Catania (1–2 hourly Mon–Sat; 1hr
45min), and limited services (early morning and lunchtime) to several other places
you might want to visit, such as Bronte, Castiglione di Sicilia and Gole Alcantara.

There’s also a morning bus (leaving at 8am) to Taormina.

Tourist information You’ll find a limited amount of information on Etna and the
surrounding area at the Parco dei Nébrodi tourist office, on the way to the museum at
Via Umberto I 197 (daily 9am–1pm & 3–7.30pm; 095 799 1611,
parcodeinebrodi.it).

ACCOMMODATION, EATING AND DRINKING

Ai Tre Parchi Bed and Bike Via Tagliamento 49 095 799 1631 or 329 897 0901,
aitreparchibb.it. Excellent place offering B&B rooms and self-catering apartments,