Page 322 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

A ring of villages circles the lower slopes of Etna, including the ski-centres of

Linguaglossa (on the Circumetnea rail route) and Nicolosi, which hold the bulk of the
accommodation, restaurants and tour facilities. The two main approaches to the
summit are from north and south. Some of the best scenery is on the north side
(signposted “Etna Nord”), and if you have your own transport, the circular road that

leads up from Linguaglossa to Piano Provenzano, and then to the Rifugio Cutelli, is
highly recommended – though the road beyond Piano Provenzana is strictly
controlled in snowy weather, and even with a 4WD you may be strongly encouraged to
leave your vehicle and take an organized jeep trip. From the south side (“Etna Sud”),
beyond Nicolosi, the chief departure point is the mountain refuge-hotel of Rifugio

Sapienza, connected by daily bus from Catania.

If you’re short on time, the easiest way to see the volcano and climb its slopes is by
organized tour. 4WD minibuses and guided hikes operate out of Piano Provenzana
and Rifugio Sapienza, though many tourists simply book an all-day tour via their hotel
or B&B in places like Taormina, Giardini-Naxos, Catania and Siracusa. If you’re
pushed for time or unable to ascend higher due to adverse conditions, you’ll have to

make do with the glimpses of Etna’s peak and hinterland from the Circumetnea
railway.

THE FERROVIA CIRCUMETNEA

Although there’s nothing to beat an ascent of Etna, you can experience something of
the majesty of the volcano along the route of the Ferrovia Circumetnea ( 095 541
250, circumetnea.it), or Circumetnea railway. This is a private line, 110km long,
starting in Catania and circling the base of Etna as far as Riposto on the Ionian coast,
30km north of Catania. It’s a marvellous ride, running through fertile vegetation –
citrus plantations, vines and nut trees – and past the strewn lava of recent eruptions,

with endless views of the summit en route. If you don’t have time to do the whole
circuit, some of the best views of Etna are between Adrano and Bronte, as the
railway line climbs ever closer to the lava flows.

You can easily do the whole round-trip in a day from Catania, although the
medieval town of Randazzo also makes an interesting overnight stop. The
Circumetnea ends its run 20km southeast of Linguaglossa at Riposto, where you

switch to the mainline station Giarre-Riposto for frequent trains south to Catania (or
north to Giardini-Naxos).

Circumetnea trains depart from Stazione Catania Borgo, on Via Caronda in
Catania. They take two hours to Randazzo, three to Linguaglossa and three and a half
to Riposto (no Sunday service; timetables available on the website), and tickets
cost €6.85 one-way, €11 return. Occasionally, sections of the line are under repair,