Page 312 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

value, thanks to the presence of so many students, who also go a long way to ensuring

the island’s best nightlife. The whole ambience is helped by the fact that the Comune
closes old-town streets and squares to traffic (the so-called café concerto) and bars
spill tables outside until the small hours. Of the outdoor cafés, those in Piazza del
Duomo and Piazza dell’Università have the best views in the most touristy locale,

while the cooler bars are found around Piazza Bellini (particularly down Via Teatro
Massimo, in Via Rapisardi and in adjacent piazzas Ogninella and Scammacca). The
sole exception is the funky, most un-Sicilian café, bar and restaurant at the Agorà
youth hostel, near the Pescheria market. In summer, there are open-air venues for
dancing until the early hours along the coast on the outskirts of town – ask around and
look for posters and flyers for the latest spots.

CATANIA’S STREET FOOD

The Catanese do a lot of eating on the hoof, from grazing on raw mussels and sea
urchins in the Pescheria to eating ice cream as they parade up Via Etnea in the

evening. February’s Festa di Sant’Agata sees food stalls selling traditional nougat
(torrone) and confections of marzipan and sweet ricotta (including little cakes
with a cherry on top, known as Minne di Sant’Agata, or Saint Agatha’s boobs),
while during summer kiosks offer that thirst-quenching Catania speciality, soda
water and crushed lemon, served with or without salt (seltz e limone con/senza
sale). In autumn the roast-chestnut vendors are out in force, and around San

Martino’s Day (November 11) it’s the time for crispelle – fritters of flour, water,
yeast and ricotta or anchovies. A great place to try these and other traditional fried
snacks is Friggitoria Stella, Via Monsignor Ventimiglia 66 (Mon–Sat 7pm–late;
closed in summer; 095 535 002), a backstreet establishment off Via Giovanni di
Prima that’s been going for years.

RESTAURANTS

Da Aldo Piazza G. Sciuti 2 095 311 158. The best choice near the Fera o Luni
market, this is an amiable first-floor lunchtime grill-house where bustling waiters reel
off the daily specials (pasta alla Norma, stuffed squid or a simple grilled sea bass or
steak). It’s great value, less than €20 for a full meal. From Piazza Carlo Alberto, take

the first left off Via Pacini, down Via al Carmine. No credit cards. Mon–Sat lunch
only.

Antica Marina Via Pardo 29 095 348 197. Trattoria bang in the heart of the fish
market where you can eat reasonably priced fresh fish on tables laid with paper
cloths. Go for one of the set menus – a mixed antipasto plus two kinds of pasta, or
antipasto plus mixed fried fish – at €25 including a lemon sorbet and coffee. Mon–Sat