Page 194 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

more than precariously balanced shells. To appreciate the citadel’s size, walk round

to the north side, where the formidable defences erected by the Spanish still stand
almost in their entirety. The massive walls are magnificent, pierced by a suitably
imposing tunnelled gateway.

Also within the citadel’s walls are the Duomo Antico, with Byzantine fragments, a
central Norman keep, the old Sala del Parlamento and the remains of the Palazzo dei
Giurati, later used as a prison. Outside the walls, opposite the castle’s entrance, the

Dominican Chiesa del Rosario was formerly a seat of the Inquisition.

The castello

Via del Castello • Guided tours: July Tues–Sun 9.30am–1.30pm & 4.30–10pm; Aug Tues–Sun 9.30am–1.30pm &
4.30pm–midnight; rest of the year check times at the tourist office, as they vary according to staffing levels • Free •
090 922 1291

The castello itself is steeped in military history: built by Frederick II in the thirteenth
century on the site of the Greek acropolis and on top of Arab foundations, it was
enlarged by Charles V, and restored by the Spanish in the seventeenth century.
Recently restored, excellent information boards in English and Italian recount the
history of the site, which retains the pile holes made by Bronze Age huts, and a

recently excavated medieval quarter with a complex system of cisterns.

Capo Milazzo

Bus #6 runs to the cape, departing from the stop to the left as you leave the hydrofoil station

Some 6km north of Milazzo, the thin Capo Milazzo promontory is the focus of most of
the summertime activity. There are plenty of good little beaches here, but the loveliest
spot to swim and snorkel is right at the tip of the cape, where the road ends and a path
leads down to a natural sea-pool known as the Piscina di Venere, or pool of Venus.
From here, a path runs along the west coast to a longer, sand and shingle beach, which

is rarely busy, even in the summer.

ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: MILAZZO

By train Trains running on the main Palermo–Messina line stop at Milazzo. The train
station is a good 3km south of the centre. Local buses are scheduled to run into town

via the port every 30min or so during the day, but the service is not entirely reliable.
Buy tickets (€0.85) aboard, or take a taxi ( 340 628 7546) for around €10. There are
usually a few enterprising locals offering an unofficial taxi service in dodgy-looking
cars. If you want to risk it, establish a price first.

By bus Buses (including the Giuntabus service from Messina, whose timings are
pretty much organized to tie in with hydrofoil arrivals and departures) stop on the

port-side car park – turn right as you disembark from the hydrofoil.