Page 159 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

Calvario, and Via Tufo is the sixth on the left. No credit cards. €60

Giulia Via San Francesco 16 091 844 9007, giuliahotel.com. Open year-round,
with ten perfectly acceptable two-star rooms above a lovely restaurant right off the
main piazza (single rooms also available). See the website for weekend packages
including certain meals and excursions. No credit cards. €90

Stella Marina Residence Via Cristoforo Colombo 35 091 844 8121,

stellamarinaustica.it. Seventeen smart, self-catering mini-apartments in a small
complex right above the port. There’s also a nice big terrace for sun-soaking, and a
small spa. Rentals range from €490–990 per week for a two-person apartment,
including breakfast, but they’re available on a two-nightly basis May–July & Sept–
Oct. Nightly rate €95

Da Umberto Piazza della Vittoria 091 844 9542, usticatour.it. As well as running

the Da Umberto restaurant, Gigi Tranchina rents out rooms in over twenty apartments
and houses around Ustica, some with great sea views, others more rustic in the middle
of the island. Prices depend on size and quality of the accommodation. From €60

EATING AND DRINKING

As well as a couple of harbourside bars, there are several places to eat on and around

Ustica Town’s central squares, and most of the hotels have restaurants, often with
roof terraces and sea views. Most restaurants not attached to hotels close during the
winter. Don’t neglect to visit Maria Cristina, just above the piazzas at Via Petriera 5,
who sells Ustica lentils, home-made preserves, pestos and sauces, and other island
treats to savour, from a tiny room in her home.

Giulia Via San Francesco 13 091 844 9007. The simple trattoria attached to this

hotel is the best bet on the island for genuine home-cooking. Try pennette al usticese
(with herbs, chilli, garlic, pine-nuts, raisins, anchovies, capers and olives), fish-balls
(polpettine) with local capers and olives, or totano (a big squid) stuffed with shrimp,
tomatoes, cheese and breadcrumbs. Fish couscous is available for a minimum of two
people, but book a day in advance. Expect to spend around €30–40 per person. No
credit cards. Daily dinner only.

Da Umberto Piazza della Vittoria 091 844 9542. Tables on the terrace and a menu
chiefly consisting of pasta dishes (from €8) and seafood main courses that depend on
the day’s catch (€12–16). Try the polpette of fish spiked with wild fennel, the
spaghetti with seafood or a soup of tiny locally grown lentils; or splash out on lobster
with spaghetti or a whole fish (such as scorpion fish) cooked with capers and
tomatoes (prices depend on weight). Daily lunch & dinner.

DIRECTORY