Page 138 - The Rough Guide of Sicily

Mazzara Via Magliocco 15 (off Via Ruggero Settimo) 091 321 443; map. Long-
established bar-pasticceria where Tomasi di Lampedusa is reputed to have penned
some of The Leopard. These days it serves light brunch and lunches – try the rare
roast beef with rocket and shaved parmesan – alongside a dangerous selection of
pastries and ice creams. Tues–Sun 7am–9pm.

Michele alla Brace Piazza Borgo Vecchio (no phone); map. At the tiny market of
Piazza Borgo Vecchio, you can’t miss this huge grill with a couple of plastic tables

and a steaming cauldron of vegetables. Buy your fish from one of the nearby stalls and
bring it to Michele, who will grill it and provide you with veg, drinks and a table.
Mon–Tues & Thurs–Sat lunch.

Obika Rinascente, Via Roma/Piazza S. Domenico 091 601 7861, obika.it; map.
On the top floor of the Rinascente department store, this is the Palermo branch of an
exclusive chain of bars specializing in meticulously sourced mozzarella di bufala,

which appears in exquisitely presented salads and other light dishes. A great
lunchtime escape from the heat and chaos of Palermo, and a good place for an
aperitivo (daily 6.30–9pm), the drinks accompanied by a selection of mouthwatering
mozzarella tasters. Daily 9am–midnight.

Palazzo Riso Via Vittorio Emanuele 365 091 320 532, palazzoriso.it; map. Cool,
white, minimalist bar inside Palermo’s new contemporary art museum. Hazelnut- and

chocolate-flavoured coffees, tisanes, cornetti with forest fruits, light lunches and
aperitivos. Eat in the bar, or outside in the shady courtyard. Free wi-fi and use of
computers. Daily 10am–11pm.

Risto Cibus Via E. Amari 79 091 323 062, gustidisicilia.com; map. High-class
grocery store with a great deli counter, and a wood-fired oven that cooks up pizzas
and other savoury pastries to eat in or take away. It’s 5min walk from the port, so

ideal for stocking up if you are sailing to Ustica or the Aeolian Islands. Daily 8am–
11pm.

Rosciglione Via Gian Luca Barbieri 5 091 651 2959; map. Watch cannoli being
made as you eat them at this bakery (which exports worldwide) on the edge of the
Ballarò market. Mon–Sat 7am–2pm & 1.30–6pm.

Spinnato Via Principe di Belmonte 107–115 091 749 5104, spinnato.it; map.
With tables outside on a pedestrianized street, this is the perfect place for breakfast,
delicious cakes and ice creams, or an aperitivo served with an aesthetic cascade of
roast almonds, shelled pistachios and crisps. Daily from breakfast until late.

RESTAURANTS

Antica Focacceria San Francesco Via A. Paternostro 58 091 320 264, afsf.it;